Discover the French Christmas market alternative you can’t miss – Arras.

E

Even though it is only November when I visit, it is hard to deny that Arras is starting to feel like Christmas. The weather is chilly, but the sun is out in the small city in northern France. As I hold my first cup of mulled wine for the season, my fingers curl up like a cat in front of a crackling fire. The air is filled with a unique combination of cinnamon, roasted chestnuts, and fried churros, which adds to the seasonal atmosphere.

As cheerful Christmas music plays in the background, I am surrounded by a growing crowd of people bundled up in warm jackets and scarves. I join in, pausing to capture photos of uniquely French sights, like brioche gingerbread men and cheese or spice-filled escargots, packaged for easy transportation.

It’s the start of what turns out to be the perfect Saturday afternoon to find my festive mood in one of northern France’s largest, yet least known, Christmas markets. Tucked up underneath the border with Belgium, just south of Lille, Arras might not have the cachet of its more well-known neighbour, but that plays in my favour: there are approaching double the number of wooden chalets (140 compared to Lille’s 89, many of them selling local handicrafts) for half the crowd, along with the requisite Christmas tree, ice-skating rink and ferris wheel. And all just a two-hour train ride from London.

My natural ability to detect bubbles guides me to the Champagne hut, which is conveniently located across from the fresh oyster stand. This strategic positioning is due to the French tradition of pairing Champagne with oysters in December. A glass of Champagne costs €7 (£6) and half a dozen oysters cost €10 (£8.60), and they are so salty that they taste like they were just taken from the sea. There is a chance that I will not want to leave for the rest of the day, but since I am only in Arras for the weekend, my curiosity to explore is stronger than my desire for another round.

Please refer to additional information regarding traveling in France.

As the sun sets, I make my way from the marketplace in Grand’ Place, the central square, to its smaller counterpart in the neighboring Place des Héros, also known as the “Petite Place” by locals. Both areas are surrounded by well-kept rows of three-story townhouses in Flemish-Baroque style, giving them a Dutch or Belgian rather than French feel. The street-level arcades are filled with festive decorations, including tinsel, baubles, and oddly large off-white teddy bears.

The atmosphere is filled with European sophistication, but there are remnants of the city’s history just beneath the surface. Luka Antonic, the charming and unique owner of Chez Marcel (a popular beer hall in Arras), compares the city to a phoenix rising from the ashes. He lines up a variety of craft beers for me to try, ranging from amber to dark brown.

During the First World War, the city was directly in the line of fire. The intense bombing resulted in only 20 percent of buildings remaining undamaged. However, these structures have since been carefully reconstructed to match their original Gothic, Renaissance, or Baroque designs, using reinforced concrete for added protection.

I had my first experience of this historical site the previous evening at Les Diners Secrets des Boves, a weekend event where a dining room is set up 12 meters below ground level in the atmospheric medieval limestone quarries of Arras. While others above us enjoyed cheesy tartiflette on paper plates, we were treated to a delicate four-course meal prepared by one of the city’s renowned chefs, Gabriel Asseman of l’Oeuf ou la Poule. Before indulging in the meal, we were given a brief tour of the underground maze that was once used by Allied soldiers, mainly from New Zealand, during the Battle of Arras in World War I.

The Wellington quarry, also known as Carrière Wellington, is the sole accessible cave site for the public. As I discovered the next day, it is a truly captivating experience for both history enthusiasts and those less versed in history. An expertly crafted audio guide and shadow projections recount the tale of the 24,000 British and Commonwealth soldiers who sought shelter here before the 1917 battle. Unlike other historical sites, there are no scripted texts to be found, making the impact all the more powerful.

Similar to other places I have been to this past weekend, the Carrière Wellington is conveniently located within walking distance of the train station. However, I opt to rent an e-bike from the tourist office for a quick 10-minute ride to the enormous, 17th-century Citadel d’Arras, designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This impressive structure was designed by the well-known French engineer Vauban. I make sure to return in time for my train departure at noon on Sunday.

The charm of smaller cities, such as Arras, lies in their vibrant yet compact atmosphere. As Antonic puts it, his hometown is like a village within a city. It is the perfect destination for a festive weekend getaway in December.

Arras can be reached from London in approximately two hours via rail. The journey involves taking the Eurostar from St Pancras International to Lille and then transferring to the regional French TER service to Arras.

Air France, easyJet, and British Airways provide flights from the United Kingdom to Paris. It takes approximately 50 minutes to travel from Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport to Arras using France’s high-speed TGV network.

The Mercure Arras Centre Gare Hotel is brightly decorated and well-maintained, situated conveniently across from the train station and within a 10-minute walk from Grand’Place.

top-rated reviews of hotels in Paris

Source: independent.co.uk