. Some fashion enthusiasts have mixed opinions about Sean McGirr’s first collection for Alexander McQueen.

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Following a 13-year tenure by Sarah Burton, Sean McGirr, the newly appointed creative director at Alexander McQueen, presented his first Fall Ready-to-wear collection for the esteemed brand. The show, held on 2 March, received a mix of praise and criticism from fashion enthusiasts as they eagerly awaited the collection, which was arguably the most highly anticipated of the season.

Inside the SEGRO Centre Paris Les Gobelins, a renovated train station engulfed in an aura of desertedness similar to the King’s Cross rave warehouse where Alexander McQueen showed his 1995 spring collection, a plethora of concepts were fed to the eager audience. Men’s leather trenches with pointed shoulders and cinched waistlines were paired with face-covering fedoras, forming smooth criminal characters. Knits and faux fur tops with rising circular necklines shielded expressions allowing only for the models’ narrow eyes to peak over the top.

Burton incorporated elements from nature into his romantic designs, while McGirr added a touch of intrigue by using various fabrics such as velvet, mohair, shearling, and stiff steel material. The collection featured animal prints in flowing dresses, pinstripe suits, fitted denim, unique hoof-shaped boots, and dazzling sequin gowns, providing a fun and diverse selection.

The description for the show stated: “Unrefined luxury. Showcasing the animalistic nature. A condensed and extended shape. Items incorporated and enclosed. Sculptures made of knitted materials.”

Archive cues were noticed in the sculpture-like structures of chunky sweaters and long overcoats. McGirr cited McQueen’s 1995 spring collection, The Birds, as being an inspiration for his debut line, as well as paparazzi pictures of Kate Moss and Amy Winehouse wearing brand emblems from the ‘90s. But in general, the designer, who’s worked alongside JW Anderson and Dries Van Noten, was motivated by the damaged, eccentric outsider.

The topic of “Outsiders” is quite intriguing to me. I am fascinated by individuals who possess unique and bold personalities that I would love to encounter on the streets of London. It seems to encompass a raw and alluring charm of the East End. I am also drawn to the concept of damaged wealth and the sharp wit and confidence of both boys and girls.

Backstage, when questioned about feeling “intimidated” to take over for his predecessor Burton and namesake designer McGirr, the 35-year-old designer stated that it wasn’t something he had considered. He explained that his focus was on bringing a fresh perspective and energy to the brand.

However, many loyal fans and devoted patrons of McQueen were not happy with this new direction. Several individuals online commented that McGirr’s collection was a departure from the established styles of both McQueen and Burton that the fashion house had become known for.

A TikTok user shared: “My dislike for the collection is not just based on my personal opinion, but also the lack of consistency with Alexander McQueen’s past designs.”

One person also commented, “Without any prior knowledge, I doubt you would be able to identify the show as being by McQueen.”

On a social media platform currently called X (previously known as Twitter), a female user elaborated on her opinions: “I noticed the mentions of Lee’s work, but it wasn’t presented positively. There was no new perspective that came from it; the clothing just seems like a diluted version of the originals.”

She mentioned that she wasn’t surprised by the lack of strength since she wasn’t expecting much. However, for those who were looking forward to reliving the Lee McQueen’s talent and theatrical performances, it was a harsh realization. She also noted that McGirr’s approach appears to be more focused on commercialization than Sarah’s.

Some people on the internet pleaded for Burton’s comeback, while others mentioned that they believed the somber edge of McQueen was “absent” and required.

A single individual expressed disagreement, stating, “It’s not as terrible as others are portraying it to be.”

“A supporter commented on the fashion, expressing appreciation for the mixture of cool styles and minimal use of leather.”

One person commented, “He’s doing well so far. He has incorporated some of Lee’s drama and used inspiration from his past work while also presenting a more marketable collection. I believe many designers who acquire these brands are hesitant to innovate and tend to rely on past designs. A rating of 8 out of 10.”

Source: independent.co.uk