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I encountered a small problem at Margaux today. This was not due to the fact that I had tried some of the finest wines from Bordeaux during a great lunch. It was because the train station in Margaux village was empty and not operational during the off-season. There were screens displaying train schedules, but it was unclear which platform to use. Trains to Bordeaux city, which typically takes 45 minutes, appeared to depart at different times from both platforms.
I took a chance and doubted if I would have enough time to cross the tracks when the train came. Fortunately, my guess was correct and I continued on with my exploration of Bordeaux using public transportation.
Many individuals are not aware of the vastness of France’s wine-making region. The distance from its northernmost to southernmost extremes is 99 miles, which would take a two and a half hour drive. This is why many people opt to take a winery tour by car or as part of a group. However, there is an alternative way to explore the vineyards – by train, bus, and tram. Despite a small issue I encountered in Margaux, I discovered that it is surprisingly simple.
One vineyard, Chateau Les Carmes Haut-Brion, is even within the sprawling city’s limits and can be reached by Bordeaux’s extensive tram network. What’s more, it’s designed by Philippe Starck, resembling the bow of a boat from the outside, while within the concrete wine vats are painted in different designs. (Tour with tasting costs €55).
It’s in complete contrast to the historic Chateau Pape Clement, a 25-minute bus journey away, or a 40-minute bus and train trip from the city centre. Vines were originally planted here in the 13th century by Bertrand de Got, who became Pope Clement V. Now, the grand cru classe wines lie maturing in an enormous barrel-filled room lit by chandeliers.
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Experience the 19th-century chateau by creating your own unique version through a process similar to a chemistry lesson. Explore various combinations of merlot and cab sav to find your winning formula. Once perfected, bottle it, cork it, and design a personalized label, such as Chateau Jane. The tour with a tasting is priced at €20 and the winemaker course is available for €99.
Another day, another vineyard or three, this time in the Medoc with its famous Margaux appellation. The village of Margaux isn’t the most appealing, but you’re there for the vino, and that doesn’t disappoint. I started with the biodynamic wine at Chateau Ferriere, made to beyond-organic principles and according to the cycle of the moon; they also make biodynamic tea. (Tour and tasting costs €25).
The Marquis de Terme is within walking distance, where I enjoyed a delicious lunch at their elegantly modern restaurant. I also had the pleasure of trying their delicious grand cru classe. The tour at this location is unique because not only do they value their history, but they also have a focus on innovation for the future.
The spacious basement has more than just rows of barrels used for aging wine. It also contains various containers designed to achieve distinct flavors – cylindrical barrels, egg-shaped concrete tanks, clay amphorae, and a sizeable wooden barrel equipped with wifi to monitor temperature, pressure, and oxygen levels. I can attest to the delectable end result; I concluded my tasting with a sample of rum produced in Martinique using the chateau’s barrels. The cost for a tour and three tastings is €35.
My experience at the station nearly put my 20-minute train ride and 20-minute walk to Chateau Saint-Ahon in jeopardy. This charming property, reminiscent of buildings in Paris’s Place de Vosges, is very family-friendly and offers walks through the vineyards with informative panels. The wines are reasonably priced, with the signature brand costing €14 and can be enjoyed with a picnic of products purchased from the shop. A tour and tasting is available for €12. The convenient location in Bordeaux’s metropolis allows for an easy tram ride back to the bustling city upon returning to the station.
Your decision of where to stay here will be determined by your preference of being close to the southern station (where I chose) or taking a tram to the beautiful Place de la Bourse in the center, which has numerous restaurants.
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If you are in Bordeaux, make sure to visit the charming medieval village of Saint-Emilion and try some of its famous wines. Fortunately, it is only a short 34-minute train ride followed by a scenic 20-minute walk along a road lined with grapevines to reach the village (or you can take an hour-long bus ride if visiting during peak season). The village is named after a saint who lived here in the eighth century and you can explore his cave along with the catacombs and impressive monolithic church. The village was also known for its skilled religious communities who produced exceptional wines.
The monks at the Couvent des Jacobins, known for their atmospheric cellars, were also included. These cellars can be accessed through a small, wooden door reminiscent of the style in the Harry Potter books, located beneath the stairs. During private visits, visitors have the opportunity to relax in the beautiful gardens and sample their organic wines paired with cheese, chocolate, or St-Emilion’s renowned macaroons (tour and tasting costs €22).
At Cloitre de Cordeliers, the area is more popular with tourists where you can enjoy a picnic at a restaurant in the remains of the cloister. You can also take a tuk-tuk tour through the town and its extensive underground network of tunnels, created by quarrying. (The cost for a tuk-tuk tour and wine tasting is €25.) The tunnels at this location are used for storing sparkling wine instead of Bordeaux red. Just a short walk away is Chateau Villemaurine, where they use their own network of tunnels to age their exceptional grand cru classé wine. Guided tours by torchlight take visitors into the quiet cellars where bats can be seen hanging from the ceiling and vine roots grow through the rocky overhead. It would be difficult to find a more captivating place to conclude my trip. (The cost for a tour and wine tasting is €20.)
Travel essentials
Ways to arrive at the destination.
Bordeaux can be reached by train in just two hours from Paris. The train tickets start at £235 for a return trip from London St Pancras, available on thetrainline.com.
Where to stay
The Golden Tulip is a contemporary hotel that is conveniently located near the train station. Double rooms with bed and breakfast start at £90.
Bordeaux-tourism.co.uk, gironde-tourisme.com
Source: independent.co.uk