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“It was my mother who introduced me to the beauty of these mountains,” says Jürg, staring at the perfectly curved summit of Jungfrau from his living room. “She grew up here.” Jürg arrived in Thun back in 1971 as a starry-eyed 21-year-old and never left. “I see the crystal clear lake, the mountains and the forest as a place to retreat to,” he says.
Thun is a place most people pass through, lured away by the excitement of Bern, the capital city to the north, or glitzy Interlaken to the south. But a simple step outside the railway station rewards visitors with stellar views of the snow-covered Bernese Alps to the right, plus the glimmering teal waters of the River Aare. The quaint city centre fans out in front, while roads lead to the villages of Gwatt, Spiez and Faulensee dotted around Lake Thun which, unsurprisingly, takes centre stage. The hamlets of Hilterfingen, Hunibach and Oberhofen around the eastern shore make up an area endearingly known as the “Riviera of the Bernese Oberland” thanks to its mountains, lake and the agreeable climate which once saw the surrounding hills covered with vineyards.
“Growing up here, our childhoods were spent going to the forest or hanging out by the lake,” Patrick, a photographer living in Oberhofen, tells me. “So, everyone appreciates nature. That’s why you never see litter anywhere.
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“I never get bored of looking at the mountains,” he continues. “In spring, you can spot ibex as you hike Niederhorn. Visitors can take a cable car or funicular to the top of Niesen or Stockhorn – there are restaurants up there. You can even hire scooters or bikes and ride back down Stockhorn when the weather is warmer.
“The mountains do close in winter for maintenance, but sometimes there are special events where you can enjoy fondue with a glass of wine inside the cable cars,” he adds.
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Lake Thun is believed to have been formed during the last glacial period, with its namesake town perching on its northeastern edge. A footpath interspersed with cosy coffee stops, friendly restaurants and slatted benches curves around it for miles, with people strolling along to marvel at the spectacular views of its famous peaks. It’s broken up into sections by wooden boat houses, private homes and walled gardens which back onto the path.
Thun’s Old Town evolved throughout the 14th and 15th centuries. Today, Obere Hauptgasse – the narrow, cobbled main street – is lined with boutiques, restaurants and cafés. The River Aare flows under parts of it and a wooden bridge crosses over to Mühleplatz.
“Mühleplatz is the most popular meeting place,” says Jill, a student from Hilterfingen. “Chillounge, El Camino, Parada and Chikka are great restaurants. One of the best summer activities is Aareböötle where people rent rubber boats and let the slow current float them down the river from here all the way to Bern. It’s a two-and-a-half-hour ride,” she says.
Thun town hall was built in 1500 and sits in the main square, Rathausplatz, surrounded by historic buildings. Fulehung, an autumn folk festival, parades through here spilling onto the surrounding lanes. Legend has it that Fulehung, the 15th-century jester of Charles the Bold of Burgundy and Luxembourg, was chased down the streets of Thun and captured by soldiers. Fulehung has remained in Thun ever since. On the last Monday of every September, he reappears and runs through the streets, chasing the crowds and handing out sweets to children.
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Like any magical place, Thun has its own castle, plus four more scattered around the lake. The steep climb up the hill to reach its white walls and conical tiled turrets is rewarded with unmatched views over the Old Town, lake and mountains. This striking building dates back to the 12th century and is a Swiss heritage site of national significance. Across its five floors, exhibits display 4,000 years of Thun social and political history. And the remarkably well-preserved Knights’ Hall is one of the last of its kind in the world.
Hünegg Castle, Oberhofen Castle and Spiez Castle each sit waterside amongst vineyards and magnificent flower gardens that open in the summer months for visitors to explore. Dating between the 7th and 19th centuries respectively, each recounts the history of the Bernese Oberland.
Built in 1852, Schadau Castle is a popular boutique hotel, restaurant and bar. Step inside a rotunda in the castle gardens to cast your gaze over Marquard Wocher’s famous panoramic painting of morning life in Thun. Painted in 1814, it remains the oldest surviving circular painting in the world. The raised viewing gallery inside allows visitors to spot familiar landmarks in the seven-and-a-half metre high, 38-metre wide painting, which includes cats on roofs, peeks through curtains at breakfast tables and the bustle of Rathausplatz. This intriguing panorama serves to remind visitors that the overlooked city of Thun remains just as enchanting now as it was more than 300 years ago.
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Source: independent.co.uk
