It is possible to eat really badly in Paris. Yes, that’s negative, but it’s also a home truth. Perhaps it’s because the number of tourists means that substandard restaurants get footfall regardless of their reviews.
Fortunately, it’s also possible to eat so well that expletives burst from your mouth and you begin shouting “ooh la la” like a true Parisian. You don’t have to fork out a fortune either if you know where to go.
Although leaps and bounds ahead of much of the country, Paris is still dismally behind London for vegan and vegetarian food. Those with dietary restrictions should call ahead of time: even the most carnivorous of restaurants will usually rustle up something if given a day or two to prepare.
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The French Bastards
Various arrondissements
True to name, many of the viennoiseries here are what purists would call “bastardised”. They’re also delicious. There are cruffins, croissant-muffin hybrids that are crispy on the outside and gooey on the inside, with sugar granules that crunch between your teeth, and croissant torsades, plaited like round Dutch braids. Hungry breakfasters should get the Kouign Amann, a Breton pastry made with so much butter that a regular croissant looks light. “Regular” bakery classics are here too, pains au chocolat and croissants, but when you’re in the pastry equivalent of a Wonka factory, it’s difficult to opt for a classic.
thefrenchbastards.fr
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Marché des Enfants Rouges
The oldest covered market in France always has a vibe, but it’s best in good weather when you can eat al fresco. Choice isn’t a problem; you can get anything from Moroccan to Japanese. The stand which always draws the longest queue is Alain Miam Miam, a build-your-own sandwich shop often voted the best in Paris. They’re also immense, quite possibly the biggest sandwiches in Paris. Save room for cod fritters from the Creole restaurant Corossol. If you’re staying self-catered, you can also do your food shop here. The cheese shops are a party.
No website; check paris.fr for opening times
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Le Bouillon Pigalle
Everyone should visit a Parisian bouillon at least once. Good value restaurants serving classic French dishes, they’re generally in beautiful, historic buildings, with high ceilings and elaborate décor, and benches rather than traditional tables to allow them to serve large numbers of customers at once. Le Bouillon Pigalle is more modern than most, but with the same long tables that leave you bumping elbows with your neighbour. Lunch is the best time to go, and menus (starter-main-dessert, with classics like steak-frites) are excellent value. Vegetarians would do well to call ahead.
bouillonlesite.com
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When a friend asks me for Paris tips, before raving about the latest exhibition, or any of the classic sites, I tell them about Orgueil. The food, the atmosphere, and even the bathrooms are just perfect. For the best experience, book the seven-course dinner service in the speakeasy part of the restaurant. In a backroom which looks straight into the open-fronted kitchen, the chefs mingle with diners between courses to explain each dish. The chargrilled tenderstem broccoli with a lemony sauce was excellent, but since the menu changes regularly, you never know exactly what you’re going to get.
bonaloi.com
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Who knew that silken tofu could make me weep with joy? In the heart of the Japanese quarter, in the Japanese-style Hotel Hana, Hanabi takes any ingredient that risks being a little bland and turns it into a culinary masterpiece. Often either rubbery or sponge-like, this tofu was the consistency of panna cotta, marinated in white sesame oil and served in a salty but delicate broth. Even creamier was the cacio e pepe udon noodles with sea urchin. The ceramic tableware is beautiful, and you can snoop on the kitchen team as you eat; it’s open-plan.
hotelhana-paris.com
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Shang Palace
Recently taken over by Tony Xu from Chengdu, at Shang Palace there are plenty of Sichuan recipes, but the dim sum is a particular highlight. The Peking duck is so shiny you can see your face in it, and wagyu beef is sourced from a farm in Normandy. The beautiful presentation, white tablecloth service and high-quality ingredients are to be expected, but sometimes it’s the simplest-sounding dishes that surprise you most: the ice salad starter feels more hydrating than a night serum.
shangpalaceparis.com
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L’Orillon
Paris 11
Classic French bistros are six to a dozen in Paris, but this restaurant is in Belleville, a district known for world food. To fit in with its surroundings, L’Orillon has taken French classics and added twists poached from other cuisines. The mayonnaise is curried, the poultry served with labneh, and rather than leeks in the galettes, you’ve got pak choi. The tables are crammed close together, and it feels like going for dinner at a friend’s (no one’s going to judge you for asking for an explainer of the wine list). It’s perfect for those who like their dining experience loud and humming with conversation.
instagram.com/lorillon_bar_de_quartier
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Source: independent.co.uk
