Walking with gods in the Greek Peloponnese

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The mention of Arcadia evokes the image of the mythical god Pan playing melodies on his reed flute for shepherds and nymphs in a peaceful natural setting. However, it may come as a surprise to learn that Arcadia is an actual location in the Peloponnese region of Greece. During my previous trips, I was too preoccupied with visiting nearby ancient sites like Olympia and Mycenae to fully explore its rugged and mountainous interior. But now, given the opportunity to discover this lost paradise, I couldn’t resist.

I am currently in Langadia, getting ready to hike through the Menalon massif in Arcadia. The stonemasons who constructed this village were highly esteemed for being the top builders in the region – a necessity for conquering these incredibly steep slopes. Simply residing here requires great physical fitness. Even after passing away, one cannot avoid the challenge of climbing – the cemetery spans across four levels.

While the coaches head towards Olympia, I make my way up a marked path that leads to fields adorned with old stone threshing areas and vibrant golden grass. A shepherd rushes by with a herd of sheep that have bells attached to them. I am currently on the 75km Menalon Trail, which is considered to be Greece’s most renowned long-distance hiking route.

In late October, I eagerly visit to extend the summer season as Britain experiences longer periods of darkness. The temperatures, averaging in the twenties, are ideal for strolling and the trees are adorned in stunning autumn hues. Spring is also a beautiful time to visit, with the added bonus of blooming wildflowers and extended daylight hours. The walking trails are moderately easy, focusing more on hill walking rather than mountaineering. However, be prepared for some challenging climbs as you move between valleys.

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I am staying in Valtesiniko, the second of six mountain villages. The terrain is steep and as expected, I make my way down to the square. I notice a sound coming from an open balcony and my attention is drawn to it. It turns out to be two elderly women dressed in black sitting on a sofa. One of them is using a hammer to crush walnuts while the other is skillfully removing them with a knife. I decide to join them and they kindly offer me some tea, which in rural Greece is typically made with mountain herbs, particularly sage.

While conversing, as soon as I mention that I am strolling by myself, the bombardment of questions comes to a halt and the women gaze at me in disbelief. “Where is your spouse?” inquires one. When I inform her that I do not have one, her mouth falls open even wider. She quickly shifts the subject. “It’s not a coincidence that walnuts resemble brains. They are highly beneficial for cognitive function. Here, have some.”

The following morning, I have a hearty breakfast of fried feta pastries and spinach pie, completely forgetting about the muesli. My walking instructions warn me that the next leg of my journey is the longest at 21km and could take up to 11 hours. I am not willing to take any risks.

The day is a blissful blur of silent, moss-clad pines, pink cyclamen that burst from the leaf litter like tiny fairy tutus, and a 14th-century monastery that served as a ”secret school” where Greek was taught during the Ottoman occupation. My final leg follows a river bed aflame with plane trees before climbing into a limestone gorge, its cliffs glowing salmon-pink in the now-evening light. Fields of dead mullein flowerheads, like stooping dinosaurs, escort me to the enticing lights of my next stopover, Vitina.

In the afternoon, I arrived at the top of Mount Elati and stayed in a chalet-style home owned by Vanna and Kostas. Vanna invited me to watch her prepare kokkoras kokkinisto (reddened rooster) for dinner. The kokkoras was actually a cockerel from Transylvania that had been recently slaughtered because it had become too heavy for the hens. Kostas explained this with a sigh. The meat was dark, similar to the juniper berries I had seen on my hike, and we enhanced its red color with tomatoes from their garden. It was served on a bed of homemade hilopites, small squares of pasta made from local goat’s milk, eggs, and flour. The dish was exceptional – even better than coq au vin.

Next on my itinerary is Stemnitsa, a village made of stone. It is renowned for its skilled artisans who specialize in crafting gold and silver. The village is also home to a silversmithing school, which I catch a glimpse of as I pass by. Afterwards, I try some of the local delicacy called skaltsounia – small pastries filled with walnuts and honey, shaped like tiny socks.

At the square, I encountered economist Ioannis Lagos, who initially came up with the idea for the Menalon Trail during the 1980s. He believed that by utilizing the region’s historic trails, both the trails and surrounding villages could be preserved. Despite some locals thinking he was crazy, Ioannis persisted and drew upon the expertise of shepherds and huntsmen to map out the area’s paths and connect them into a 75km trail. This trail officially opened in 2015 and has attracted hikers from all over the world. Even Ioannis’s critics have acknowledged that they were mistaken, as everyone from taxi drivers to shopkeepers and hoteliers have reaped the benefits of the trail’s success.

He joins me for the last part of our journey through the verdant canyon of the Lousios river, believed to be the spot where newborn Zeus was bathed by nymphs. On our right, a monastery clings to the limestone cliff like a bird’s nest. The chapel inside, carved into the rock, is lit by flickering candles and adorned with solemn frescoes.

Currently, there are only four monks residing in Prodromou. Guests are treated to Turkish delight and tea, while the tantalizing scents of cooking drift from the kitchen. One of the bearded monks shares, “The food here is delicious. We take turns cooking, but I am not often chosen as my style is seen as unconventional.”

Dimitsana, a medieval village situated on a towering rock above a gorge, boasts additional monasteries, beautiful olive trees, and a gunpowder mill from the 18th century. As expected, there is a steep ascent, but the quaint cobblestone streets and grand stone homes make it worthwhile. While I may not have been enchanted by nymphs, I have encountered rugged terrain, shepherds, and evergreens that will stay with me forever. Arcadia has exceeded my expectations.

Clare journeyed with On Foot Holidays, a company that can be found at onfootholidays.co.uk.

Wizz, Ryanair, easyJet, British Airways, and Aegean offer non-stop flights from the United Kingdom to Athens. From there, you can rent a car or take a bus to Tripoli.

The Amanites Hotel in Dimitsana provides guests with traditional accommodations and a daily breakfast buffet.

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Source: independent.co.uk