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In the buzzing heart of Córdoba, it’s easy to see why the caliphs of Al-Andalus chose the city as the capital of their western European empire in AD 711. The labyrinthine streets – where buildings stand almost like souks and the aroma of shisha smoke drifts from cosy bars – are more reminiscent of the sun-baked medinas of the Middle East than the boulevards of Madrid or Valencia.
The meandering paths hold stories of Islamic influence dating back over one thousand years, even though some may think of Muslim integration in the Western world as a more recent notion. It is a challenging topic to debate, often prompted by global events rather than the actual experiences of Muslims in Western communities.
The presence of Islam in Europe is not recent. In fact, its impact in Córdoba precedes many contemporary European countries as they exist in the present day. Islamic practices, such as Ramadan, a 30-day period of fasting observed by Muslims around the world each year, hold significance in Europe’s historical record.
Throughout one month, European followers of the Muslim faith arise before sunrise to partake in suhoor, the meal consumed before dawn. They maintain a fast during the daylight hours and break their fast at iftar, the meal at sunset. These individuals gather in mosques across Europe for the purpose of spiritual contemplation and community events, as is customary around the world. However, out of all the locations, only Córdoba can truthfully declare itself as the origin of Ramadan in Europe. This city serves as the first place where it was practiced in an organized manner.
One hundred years after Islam was founded, a group of Arabs and Berbers journeyed from Damascus through North Africa and over the Strait of Gibraltar. Their goal was to establish a caliphate that would rival the other major Islamic centers in Egypt and the Levant.
Explore further about traveling in Spain.
Córdoba was selected as the capital city, marking the beginning of the development of the Islamic Al-Andalus over a period of 780 years. At its height, Córdoba flourished with over 300,000 residents and became the center of a caliphate that encompassed a vast section of the Iberian Peninsula.
The northern border of this city is marked by the Sierra Morena mountain range in Spain, dividing this area of Andalusia. The modern buildings in Córdoba must adhere to a height limit of seven stories in order to not overshadow its famous cathedral spires. They can be found along the banks of the Guadalquivir River.
After Spain was reclaimed from the Moors, the minaret of the Mezquita was repurposed as a bell tower.
“University students from around the world visit to examine religious history,” my guide, Maria Font Merino said. A proud Córdobes, born and bred, Maria has used her intimate knowledge of the city on tours for nearly three decades.
She continued, “Córdoba is a must-visit destination for students studying Islamic history and theology.” We walked through the remains of Madinat al-Zahra, the palace city of the caliphs, also known as Medina Azahara. Its structure can now be found on a hillside, about 8km west of Córdoba’s center. It is considered an important site by Spain’s archaeology community and is a recent addition to the Unesco World Heritage list, of which they are proud.
Córdoba’s Medina Azahara was built in the 10th century by Caliph Abd al-Rahman III
Cordoba experienced a surge in population due to the spread of Islam, which eventually led to the creation of Medina Azahara, also known as the “shining city”. This palace was constructed in the 10th century by Caliph Abd al-Rahman III and is built on three tiers on a hillside. The highest level contains the caliph’s palace, while the lower levels hold the remains of administrative and religious hubs of Al-Andalus. There is still much to be uncovered at the site, with over 90% of it yet to be excavated, giving a sense of eager anticipation.
The magnificence of Medina Azahara diminished in AD 1010 due to a Berber uprising. As a result, the city was destroyed and its treasures were scattered, eventually reaching northern Europe and leaving a mark on its art and culture.
The remains that I examined were a far cry from the beaches of Marbella or the orderly streets of Barcelona. However, there was a clear indication that we were in Spain: the abundance of olive trees. Córdoba – along with the rest of Andalusia – has the highest number of olive orchards in the nation.
During the time of Moorish control, olive growing became significant again, with the current Spanish term for oil, “aceite,” coming from the Arabic word “al-zeit” meaning olive oil.
After some time, I went back to my lodging, the Parador de Córdoba, located in the hills 3km away from the city center, specifically in the Arruzafa district. It was built on top of the remains of Abd al-Rahman l’s summer palace. This area is known for having the oldest palm trees in Europe with a legend saying that they were personally planted by the caliph himself. Nowadays, the grand property has a mid-century appeal that offers a refreshing change from the busy historic center of Córdoba.
“The Parador de Cordoba provides a tranquil getaway situated in the mountains overlooking Cordoba.”
(The Cordoba Parador)
Sunset was fast approaching, which meant finding somewhere to break my fast. I made my way to a vegetarian iftar at Amistad Córdoba, a hotel located across two Moorish mansions within the city’s old Jewish quarter. The area was home to Córdoba’s Jewish population from the 10th to 15th centuries.
The dinner, a sampler of Córdoban food, showcased a fusion of Moorish and modern Spanish influences. Notable dishes included salmorejo, a chilled tomato soup from Andalusia that resembled the tomato rice soup found in Arab cuisine. Grilled vegetables, such as honey-glazed eggplant, reminded one of baba ganoush, while the vegetarian-friendly flamenquín was a lighter version of falafel.
The next day, heavy rain urged me to use a taxi to reach Córdoba’s impressive Mezquita. This combined religious structure spans 24,000 square meters and stands out in the city’s landscape. The architecture is nearly indescribable and the interior is just as intricate as its significant past.
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The writer posing outside Mezquita, a mosque-cathedral in Córdoba.
In the year 785 AD, construction began under the vision of Abd al-Rahman I to build a mosque modeled after those in Damascus and Baghdad. Following the fall of Al-Andalus and the Spanish Reconquista in 1236 AD, the mosque was taken over by Christians who made alterations such as adding an altar under the skylight and a bell to the minaret.
The remaining representation of today embodies the Córdoban encounter. It is a tangible fusion of two distinct cultures and religions, evoking both a sense of ease and discomfort simultaneously. It is like having two separate structures coexisting in one shared location.
There are a remarkable 856 pillars made of marble and jasper that can be seen in rows at the Mezquita, which are reminiscent of the design of historical mosques. However, what sets the Mezquita apart is its central cathedral, which almost seems out of place with its detailed marble statues featuring Catholic saints and figures. The cathedral was constructed over the span of two centuries, incorporating elements from at least four different architectural styles. Interestingly, the cathedral sits mere meters away from where the mosque’s mihrab used to be, indicating the direction of prayer for the Muslim community in the city.
Currently, the Mezquita is a source of tension in Spanish society. Due to its function as a cathedral, Muslims are prohibited from praying in the areas that resemble a mosque. This decision has resulted in ongoing protests and occasional conflicts between the two religions.
Reworded: Amidst ongoing heavy rainfall, I left the Mezquita and quickly made my way towards the Calahorra Tower, located on the mostly reconstructed Roman bridge with Moorish influences. The museum within now showcases the daily life of Al-Andalus during that time.
A vendor standing outside with a cart of shawarmas caught my attention, and he signaled to his menu. “Come try a shawarma!” he yelled. Using my limited Spanish, I explained that I was fasting. He stopped and responded with a grateful “Alhamdulillah.”
At that point in time, Córdoba impressively showcased to me the rich history of Islam and Ramadan in Europe, making it an exceptional location to delve into the religion’s impact beyond the Middle East.
Travel essentials
Maria Font Merino has been a certified tour guide for more than 25 years, providing exclusive tours in Cordoba through ToursByLocals.
Getting there
Multiple airlines offer flights to Malaga from major airports in the UK. Ryanair, Vueling, British Airways, and EasyJet all operate flights to Seville from London, Birmingham, and Manchester. A high-speed train journey of approximately one hour is available every 30–50 minutes from either city to Córdoba.
Where to stay
Cordoba’s Parador
The hotel boasts breathtaking scenery, complete seclusion, and a fascinating background. It is conveniently located near a bus stop, providing easy access to the city centre within 15 minutes.
the best Spain hotels
Source: independent.co.uk
