Reasons to visit Obertauern, the most snow-covered ski destination in Austria.

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During the winter of 2022/23, the media was inundated with alarming reports about a shortage of snow in popular winter sports destinations. However, this issue primarily impacted lower-altitude resorts in the north-western Alps, while most ski areas throughout the rest of the Alps (such as the Dolomites and Pyrenees) remained open as usual, despite the mild temperatures.

One resort had a particular reason to be cheerful. Obertauern, situated in the Radstädter Tauern mountain range in Salzburgerland, was one of the few ski areas in Austria that last Christmas had a plentiful helping of snow, not just on the pistes, but off them too. It’s not surprising, as it has also been named the snowiest non-glacier resort in Austria, with such an abundance that it opened on 24 November and will close on 1 May.

When I arrived at the ski-in, ski-out village in mid-December, I was initially worried about the snow. However, as soon as I looked out the lower windows of the hotel, I was immediately reassured. The snow outside was piled up in layers, resembling neatly folded blankets against the glass.

During my initial ascent, the layers of snow beneath me appeared like a multitude of contour lines on a map. Speaking of contour lines, this village sits at an elevation of 1,700m and its ski runs are cleverly integrated into the pine-covered mountainside. As a result, it acts as a barrier for storms approaching from the north and south, ensuring abundant snowfall.

This is unfortunate news for the operators of snow groomers. When I stepped on my skis, I realized they had stopped working, as the snow had accumulated into soft bumps.

I was informed that this is not entirely true. Natural snow is less compact than man-made snow, causing it to be easily disrupted by skiers and snowboarders. This results in a longer process of compacting it into the smooth, textured surface we commonly see on ski slopes.

Is Obertauern, with its abundance of snow, considered Europe’s snowiest resort? Unfortunately, we do not have the answer as Austria is the only country that has recorded snow depth data for over a hundred years. During a coffee break, I inquired with Mario Siedler, the head of the tourist board, for an explanation.

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According to him, the villagers have been keeping track of records for over a century to determine when it is safe to return to the valley after an avalanche and to plan how to stretch their food supplies until then.

Soldiers in Vienna realised this was crucial strategic information and started collating the data. During the First World War, for example, avalanches were a key tactical weapon, with Austro-Hungarian troops setting them off over the lines of the invading Italian forces.

Dr. Günther Aigner, a researcher, has examined the extensive data and determined that Obertauern has an average maximum snow depth of 256cm since 1908 (which is typically generated from approximately five meters of snowfall each year), making it the most snow-covered non-glacier resort in Austria.

In the last three decades, there has been a slight increase in the measurement to 264cm. This could be attributed to the rise in global temperatures, potentially resulting in higher levels of moisture in the air and increased snowfall at higher elevations.

Mario’s discussion about the villagers from the past who were trapped without food and the impending storm was causing me to feel quite hungry. Luckily, the hotel I was staying at had a plentiful selection of delicious cuisine. The hotel was acquired by the Croatian Valamar hotel company in 2023 and was renovated just in time for this season, allowing the group to retain their top chefs from their summer resorts on the Adriatic coast throughout the year. In addition to the evening options of cuttlefish risotto and duck, breakfast also included oysters and sparkling wine every morning.

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Instead of the usual Austrian places, where employees dress in traditional attire and serve in quiet rooms lined with wood, this hotel is more of a lively party spot with a youthful and relaxed atmosphere, complete with funky tunes. This is fitting, as it was the location of the Beatles’ sole concert in Austria during their filming of Help! in 1965.

Inspired by Paul McCartney, I decided to give snowbiking, an Austrian specialty, a try. Hermann Koch, the owner of a ski school here, holds the impressive title of a seven-time Guinness World Record holder in this sport.

After attaching two smaller skis to my feet, I learned how to control and halt the “Easy Rider” in only thirty minutes. This is one of the reasons why snowbiking is highly favored among people who do not ski. We swiftly traveled over the uneven terrain of piste 15b and even made our way through “Love Valley”, a stunning nearby ravine that I would have otherwise overlooked.

The bikes have excellent suspension, making snowbiking a popular alternative to skiing for skiers with back, knee, or ankle issues.

But during the descent on the steep red slope from the peak of Zehnerkarbahn, Koch guided me and I had to explain to another skier who inquired if snowbiking was simply sitting, that it was – similar to how skiing is just standing.

The ski slopes in Obertauern, Austria offer a good balance of challenging red runs for more experienced skiers, and easier blue pistes for those looking for a more leisurely ride. For a comprehensive experience of the 100km of slopes and 26 lifts, there is a recommended circular route that takes you through mostly blue pistes. The piste map is also user-friendly, with arrows indicating the direction of the slopes, which is not common.

There are also activities specifically designed for children, including two shorter tours. These tours feature slalom runs, igloos, a ghost piste, warm-up routines, and other enjoyable activities.

A clockwise route is available for experienced skiers, leading them through primarily red slopes amidst the resort’s sunny mountains. One particularly striking peak is the Seekarspitz, bearing a strong resemblance to the Matterhorn.

The following day, feeling more confident after enjoying some bubbly at breakfast, I took on another of Obertauern’s tasks: conquering the resort’s seven peaks. This included making my way through the difficult black ridge run from the Gamsleiten peak, which sits at an elevation of over 2,300m and has sections with a steep 45-degree slope. After this challenging feat, I was in dire need of some relaxation at the hotel’s spa. I quickly headed to the outdoor saunas, which were tucked away behind large cornices of freshly fallen snow, to calm my nerves.

Information about Obertauern has spread, and the resort is typically busy during its busiest time. However, the true appeal of Obertauern lies in the “shoulder seasons” between late November and Christmas and from Easter Monday to May 1st. During other times, there are plenty of other resorts with reliable snow conditions due to artificial snow production, even though they may not have the same impressive snow record as Obertauern. Additionally, the new hotel allows for convenient booking and shorter stays for those interested in a quick trip before or after peak season.

My pre-Christmas vacation concluded with a forecast of 1.2m of snowfall in the next 48 hours. This inevitably led to alarming headlines about skiers being stuck in the resort, but I personally did not get stuck – although I do somewhat regret not experiencing it.

British Airways, easyJet, Ryanair, Jet2, Tui, and Wizz Air all offer direct flights to Salzburg from 11 different UK airports. The flight time is less than 90 minutes and Salzburg is located close to Obertauern, which is easily accessible by car.

It takes approximately 17 hours to travel from London to Obertauern by train. This involves taking the Eurostar to Brussels, then boarding the Nightjet to Salzburg and finally a local train to Radstadt. From Radstadt, it is a 20-minute bus ride to Obertauern. The Nightjet is currently testing out individual sleeping pods in addition to regular sleeper compartments.

Colin was a guest at the Places hotel in Obertauern, Salzburgerland, Austria, sponsored by Valamar. The hotel offers half-board accommodations starting at €250 (£213) per night. The resort is open from late November to early May, and a day pass for adults costs €59 (£50). A week-long pass is priced at €286 (£244). Additionally, multi-day passes are also valid for the 50km of slopes in the nearby Grosseck-Speiereck region, just a 15-minute drive away.

Two-hour snowbiking lessons are priced at €99 (£85) per individual. For an additional drink, moonlight tours are available at a cost of €39 (£33) per person, which includes snowbike rental.

Source: independent.co.uk