Following wolves and bears on an Italian excursion – only an hour and a half away from Rome.

“I believe it’s a bear,” murmurs Andrea De Angelis, a guide for wildlife. He hands me a thermal monocular and directs my attention to a specific spot on the hillside beside us. It’s a freezing morning, and the sunrise is still covering the slow-moving central Apennine mountains in a dull winter brown. We’ve positioned ourselves on a barren hill a few miles from a farm, with the distant sound of cows mooing in the increasingly bright air. I remove a glove and raise the monocular to my eye, surveying the valley below.

Andrea confidently declares, “It’s too large to be a wolf and its movements are not like a deer. It must be a bear.” I look around and spot a ghostly white figure moving through the black-and-white scene. The animal comes to a halt and turns sideways, revealing the recognizable silhouette of a Marsican brown bear.

I am currently on a wildlife-watching excursion in central Italy organized by Wildlife Adventures, a tour company that partners with Rewilding Europe, an NGO dedicated to promoting rewilding efforts throughout the continent. The idea of rewilding is a relatively new concept in nature conservation, characterized by a non-traditional approach that aims to allow nature to thrive on its own terms. This involves actively managing nature to allow natural processes to restore and rejuvenate damaged ecosystems and landscapes.

The concept is that rewilding allows for Earth’s natural cycles to establish new, untamed environments that are rich in biodiversity. The local division of the NGO, Rewilding Apennines, has the responsibility of monitoring and reintroducing various endangered and vulnerable species, which used to roam freely in central Italy. They also strive for a harmonious relationship between humans and wildlife in these rural areas.

Explore the topic of traveling in Italy by reading further.

The park we are currently in, called Abruzzo, Lazio and Molise National Park, was established in 1923. It serves as a sanctuary for various animal species such as the Apennine wolf, Apennine chamois, gryphon vultures, and the rare Marsican brown bear. Only around 60 to 90 of these bears remain in the park, making it a privilege to see one. However, their hibernation patterns are changing due to the effects of global warming.

Tourism plays a significant role in the rewilding efforts in this area. The presence of wildlife attracts visitors, who contribute to the local economy and create new job opportunities for residents in rural mountain communities that are often overlooked. Valerio Reale, enterprise officer for Rewilding Apennines, explains that they have established a small network of tourism providers, including local artisans, small businesses, brewers, cheesemakers, and accommodation owners. These providers not only support the rewilding efforts, but also enhance travelers’ experiences with unique offerings such as cheese and beer tastings, boutique bed and breakfasts, vineyard tours (where you may even spot bear tracks), and markets selling local honey, craft cider, and prized black truffles.

Reale states that a key advantage of this region is the unique blend of captivating goods and the presence of untamed creatures. The notion that this area is more than just a popular skiing spot drives us, and we actively engage in community gatherings and arrange rewilding events for the purpose of promoting rewilding in Italy as an NGO. These initiatives also aid in boosting the local economy and employment opportunities, while also highlighting intriguing products.

Rewilding Apennines also runs Rewilding Experiences – weekend and week-long tours that include hands-on conservation science and education, alongside wildlife watching and visiting local artisans. Activities usually involve checking camera traps, building electric fences or tracking and cataloguing wildlife movements.

According to Reale, there is a growing desire among people to physically engage with the land. Instead of simply hearing about it, they want to witness it for themselves. This can involve activities like removing barbed wire in mountainous regions. Rewilding Apennines offers limited opportunities for such experiences throughout the year, which tend to sell out fast. It is recommended to regularly check their website for upcoming dates and registration information.

Returning to the slope, I am trembling as the sunrise begins to illuminate the sky with a wash of purplish-pink hues on the eastern side. The bear has departed, but Andrea has noticed another creature. Something smaller now. Something with four legs and a lean build. Something I was eagerly anticipating to encounter: a untamed wolf.

The man quickly focuses the spotting scope towards the designated area while I continue to keep a lookout using the thermal monocular. The wolf is in motion, making its way up the hill in search of elevated terrain.

Andrea suggests that the wolf has probably been searching for prey all night and is now seeking a place to rest. As predicted, a short while later, the wolf stops on some boulders. It requires great skill with the scope, but eventually, Andrea spots the wolf, its reddish fur, grey coat, and dark-tipped tail camouflaging perfectly with the surroundings of Abruzzo.

I am instantly drawn to this creature, with its droopy ears and adorable, smiling nose that goes against society’s negative portrayal of wolves. Although I am aware that I would probably not survive an attack from this animal, I can’t help but wonder why it has such a friendly appearance. In truth, wolves in this region pose minimal danger to humans and tend to avoid interactions with people. This is largely due to the efforts of organizations like the National Park and Rewilding Apennines to keep wolf habitats separate from places where hikers and hunters frequent.

Together, Andrea and I stand side by side, alternating between looking through the scope to observe the wolf’s nest among the rocks. Every now and then, the wolves take a break to sniff the air or adjust their position. After a while, Andrea notices two additional wolves making their way down a distant hillside. We speculate that they are likely part of the same pack, which roams this particular ridge as their designated territory.

The next day, we embark on a brief yet steep trek up the nearby mountains, away from where the wolf pack resides. Although we do not encounter any wolves in this area of the park, we do come across numerous herds of red deer roaming around us. Among them is a magnificent group of stags, their massive antlers swaying as they trot through a cluster of dense pine trees. We also spot gryphon vultures and two golden eagles silently circling above us. Once we reach the top, nestled between two peaks, we drop our backpacks to the ground and gaze at the mountainsides while enjoying some local bread, salami, and cheese – all produced within a few miles from here.

Sitting in this remote location, surrounded by wild animals, it is hard to believe that the bustling and ancient city of Rome is only a 90-minute drive away. This is the main objective of rewilding conservation: rather than trying to recreate a specific past state, it aims to let nature thrive in its own unique way, alongside humans. The goal is to also teach humans how to peacefully coexist with wildlife. The ultimate aim is a balanced ecosystem where communities and nature can harmoniously coexist. Spending time in this small area of flourishing biodiversity in the heart of Europe is a great way to begin this journey.

Wildlife Adventures provides a three-day, two-night package for €240 (£206) per individual. This includes lodging in a historic residence in Pescasseroli and the option for custom excursions such as visits to nearby craftsmen or overnight treks in a mountain shelter. Please note that participants should be in good physical condition for hiking in the mountains and early morning outings.

Exodus Travels offers a comprehensive six-day excursion in collaboration with Rewilding Apennines, featuring a 4-star hotel accommodation, delicious meals at nearby eateries, and knowledgeable trekking guides.

From the United Kingdom, you can either take the Eurostar and international trains to reach Rome, or you can opt to fly to Rome Ciampino and rent a car.

Learn more about the top hotels in Italy.

Source: independent.co.uk