Bad Gastein is a ski spot full of wonders beyond the slopes

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With its picturesque landscapes of steam rising from hot springs, the beautiful sunset over grand Habsburg homes and snow-covered mountains, it was difficult to find a more charming setting than this. Often times, rooftop pools overpromise and underdeliver, but the Grand Hotel Straubinger’s infinity pool in the heart of Bad Gastein was truly exceptional. The added bonus of a view of Hotel de l’Europe, believed to be the inspiration for Wes Anderson’s Grand Budapest Hotel, only added to the experience. Just below, the roaring waterfall of Bad Gastein could be seen, responsible for nourishing some of the thermal springs that attracted visitors in the 19th century.^th

The century of Habsburgs was also drawn to this location known for its restorative springs, just as I was with my exhausted knee.

Why visit a ski resort if you are still healing from a skiing injury that prevents you from enjoying those beloved pistes? Most likely because there is more to do in the Austrian Alps than just skiing down the slopes, even though it is a major attraction. Bad Gastein, located only 80 minutes south of Salzburg airport, offers a fulfilling experience beyond the slopes that does not require both legs to be fully functional.

Firstly, the urge to visit the mountains needed to be fulfilled. The cable car located at Bad Gastein’s railway station transported me to Stubnerkogel, standing tall at 2,246m. Beneath a canopy of clear skies, I followed a snowy pathway to reach the observatory deck, where I couldn’t resist dancing with delight as I took in the cold, refreshing air and marveled at the High Tauern Mountains before me. On the opposite end of the cable car station, I strolled along a suspension bridge spanning 140m in length and hanging 28m above ground level, providing even more breathtaking views.

As mid-morning approached, I couldn’t help but crave a warm cup of hot chocolate. The sunny terrace at Bergstadl, just a quick walk from the cable car’s midway point, seemed like the perfect spot to indulge in the rich and creamy drink, topped with a generous mound of whipped cream. As I sat there, I couldn’t help but think about skiing, but my injured knee reminded me that I wasn’t quite ready to hit the slopes yet.

That left more of the simpler pleasures of the mountains to enjoy. In Argental a little further north in Gastein Valley, I was meeting Theresa Sommerbichler for a spot of forest bathing. Not, as it sounds, a dip in the freezing Schattbach running alongside the woods, but a slow, contemplative walk through the pines, breathing deeply, taking in every scent and sound, finishing the walk with Theresa’s refreshing spruce tea and feeling utterly relaxed. I usually do some snowshoeing on a ski trip (still a knee no-no, though), so this less strenuous woodsy walk was a welcome substitute.

At Alpentherme in Bad Hofgastein, located further down the valley, I finally got to experience the true relaxation of soaking in thermal baths. This was exactly what I had been looking forward to – a vast complex with both indoor and outdoor thermal pools, with bubbling jets scattered throughout. Despite the cool air giving my cheeks a rosy glow as I took in the stunning mountain views, there was a similar option available in Bad Gastein at the Felsentherme thermal baths near the train station. The Felsentherme’s minimalistic design was a bit surprising, and I found the pool layout to be less convenient compared to Alpentherme. However, for those who don’t want to make the 20-minute bus journey to Bad Hofgastein, it is a convenient option within the town itself.

If I had more time, I could have given the Gastein Heilstollen a try, which is a healing chamber deep underground. The radon gases in this chamber are believed to alleviate certain health issues, especially after multiple treatments over the course of a week. I had to make a decision between spending most of a day trying a treatment that might not have lasting effects after just one session, or enjoying a leisurely lunch and exploring Bad Gastein. I chose the latter.

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th-century high society

The steep roads of Bad Gastein are lined with extravagant buildings from the Belle Epoque era, originally intended to serve as a comfortable retreat for wealthy individuals of the 1800s.^th

During the 20th century, the upper class displayed lavish weddings with extravagant cakes. Some of these opulent buildings, such as the Hotel de l’Europe, were turned into apartments and vacation accommodations, while others remained unoccupied but surprisingly well-maintained, in anticipation of a wealthy buyer.

Fortunately, an individual stepped in to revive the five-star Grand Hotel Straubinger after it had been dormant for 23 years. This exquisitely refined landmark reemerged in September 2023. The hotel’s luxurious three-story rooftop spa was just as remarkable as its Straubinger Saal restaurant. The restaurant offered imaginative four-course dinner options, which included standout dishes such as lobster bisque and roasted Barbary duck breast served with a delightful celery cream.

Lunch, however, called for full-on Austrian mountain soul food. I was on the terrace at Kleine Scharte on Schlossalm, the 2,050m peak overlooking Bad Hofgastein, with a big plate of wonderfully gooey Käsespätzle (little dumplings smothered with melted cheese), a large Stiegl lager and clear sunny skies. I spotted a black puppy that was deliriously jumping in and out of the snow, full of the joys of winter. I could relate to that.

The closest airport to Bad Gastein is Salzburg and it is accessible via Ryanair, British Airways, easyJet, Wizzair, and Jet2. From the city center, there are train services to Bad Gastein.

The conveniently situated Grand Hotel Straubinger is situated in the heart of Bad Gastein and provides breathtaking views of both the waterfall and Straubingerplatz square. Along with a variety of sauna amenities, the hotel also features a holistic spa complete with a rooftop infinity pool that offers stunning vistas.

Rewording not applicable.

Source: independent.co.uk