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The more knowledge you acquire about them, the more infatuated you become.
As the deputy tourism minister of Egypt gazes across the Giza plateau, he enthusiastically describes the impressive sight of the Great Pyramid towering over the surrounding desert.
The deepness of the clouds creeps over the sandy inclines before retreating, revealing the pyramids gleaming in a brilliant yellow, mirroring the surrounding sand and dominating the skyline as they reach towards the sky.
Mohamed Salama enthusiastically discusses his plans to revitalize tourism in Cairo, which includes the launch of the Great Egyptian Museum.
We will be enjoying an Egyptian lunch of mixed grilled meats at 9 Pyramids restaurant, hidden within the Giza desert plateau with a view of one of the most renowned landmarks in the world.
Out of sight, on the northern side of the pyramids and the sphinx, is the 120-acre site of the long-delayed but highly-anticipated £1 billion Japanese-funded museum – the largest archaeological museum in the world with 872,000 square-feet of floorspace.
The museum will house a total of 100,000 artifacts, including 5,398 pieces from the renowned Tutankhamun collection. Some noteworthy items in this collection include the iconic death mask of the young king and his golden throne.
Over a century ago, British archaeologist Howard Carter gained worldwide attention for his excavations, leading to the discovery of one of the most significant historical findings. Currently, Egypt is making preparations for an extravagant tomb to house the treasures of this renowned king.
The top of the beige building slants towards the ground, resembling a beam of sunlight piercing through the sky. This is broken by a black stone pyramid that serves as the impressive entrance to the museum.
Upon entering the building, I am welcomed into the grand and spacious lobby by a statue of Ramses II that is over 3,200 years old. Standing at 11 meters tall, it was installed when the site was still a pile of sand and the museum was subsequently built around it.
“I have received an invitation from easyJet Holidays to get an early look at the highly anticipated museum, which the Egyptian tourist authority is touting as one of the most impressive historical exhibits in the world. However, an official opening date has yet to be determined.”
The tour begins by immersing us in a 360-degree cinematic experience. This transports us through time and into the famous story of King Tut. We embark on a virtual adventure to the Valley of the Kings and ultimately to the recreation of his tomb. The walls of the tomb are adorned with bright yellows, reds, and greens, just as they were when they were first painted for his burial in 1323BC.
Later, I go back to the lobby to start climbing the Grand Staircase, which resembles the pyramids. These were built as a means to reach the heavens for the god kings who were laid to rest in their extravagant tombs.
As I progress higher, I encounter numerous statues, sarcophagi, and tablets that narrate the history of Egypt’s rulers. These lead me to the ultimate level, representing the timeless goal of all kings – eternal life.
Here is the entrance to the gallery dedicated to Tutankhamen – whose name will surely live forever – and a giant window providing an awe-inspiring view of the three main pyramids of Giza on the horizon.
Currently, the visit has come to a pause until an official opening date is announced. It is expected that the opening will take place later this year. However, the Covid-19 pandemic, Arab Spring crisis in 2011, and the recent Israel-Gaza war have caused significant delays.
Before departing the museum, archaeologist Tarek Sarhan unveils a final hidden surprise.
A small window has been created above the entrance to allow a ray of sun to shine directly on to the giant Ramses II statue twice a year, in the same way that the ancients designed his tomb for a ray to shine on the faces of the Holiest of Holies along the back wall.
Can this scenario, reminiscent of an Indiana Jones film, possibly mark the long-awaited opening of the museum on October 22nd?
Excited to see the Tutankhamen artifacts, Tarek brings me to their current location at the Egyptian Museum in Cairo. The museum still exudes the nostalgic allure of the colonial period when it was founded in 1902.
The museum is filled with countless dusty artifacts spread throughout its numerous halls and galleries, giving off a warehouse-like ambiance rather than a traditional exhibition. This makes me feel like I am personally uncovering the discoveries.
To enter the Tutankhamen room, I jostle with an impatient queue before finally squeezing into the darkened gallery, with warning cries of ‘No photo’ and ‘Keep moving’ being bellowed repeatedly by the museum guards. But even the cramped and boisterous conditions cannot dampen the shining glory of the death mask, famous to the world but whose impact and beauty can only be felt in person. Soon, these treasures will be transferred to the pristine new museum, leaving the chaos and dust behind.
The government of Egypt is implementing extensive measures to improve access to the new museum and Sphinx pyramids. These include constructing a new airport close by and building an 18-lane motorway connecting the city. Additionally, efforts are being made to revitalize the city itself by creating a lake and park around the recently opened National Museum of Egyptian Civilization, featuring the Mummies Hall.
The 22 mummies, including 18 kings and four queens, were transferred in April 2021 from the old museum in a procession accompanied with enormous pomp and circumstance through the city’s streets.
New attractions are not the only reason Cairo is worth visiting; it’s also a necessary stop on the way to other popular sites such as Luxor and Abu Simbel. Tarek also points out the Coptic Church of Saints Sergius and Bacchus, which is said to be the place where Jesus and the Virgin Mary took refuge during their exile from King Herod.
This location is adjacent to the Ben Ezra Synagogue, where the infant Moses was discovered in the Nile, although the river has since receded from this location.
Tarek also takes me to the beautiful Sultan Hassan and El Refai mosques and the impressive Mohamed Ali Mosque in the Citadel of Salah El Din, which dominates the skyline of the bustling city.
Although the city may seem dusty and overwhelming, with a population of 25 million, it is not hard to discover tranquil oases, like the Waldorf Astoria Heliopolis Hotel where I am currently residing.
The atrium is expansive and can even accommodate multiple palm trees, serving as a welcoming and calming barrier from the constant traffic noise of the congested roads outside.
As the city develops with newer buildings, it appears that the concept of customer service is also improving.
Egyptians have been much-maligned for their hard-sell techniques, but as I walk through the streets of the Khan el-Khalili bazaar, I am only greeted with smiles and nothing more pushy than the jokey slogan parroted by the sellers: “How can I take your money from you today?”
The growing recognition of tourism’s significance, along with a higher demand for other popular destinations in Egypt such as Hurghada and Sharm el Sheikh, was the main reason behind easyJet’s decision to introduce a year-round flight to the new Cairo Sphinx airport from London Luton in October. The flight operates three times a week on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays.
As I depart from a weekend visit and head back home, the minister’s words replay in my mind – and I come to the realization that I too am captivated by the lore of the pyramids.
Source: independent.co.uk