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January 1st, 1988 marked the beginning of a tumultuous journey as I entered Guatemala.
Begin the new year with an exciting tropical journey – always a great idea. In the past, during the decade of Thatcher, Wham!, and relaxed air travel regulations, I flew from Gatwick to Miami on Virgin Atlantic and then connected to now-defunct Eastern Airlines for a short two-hour flight to a completely new and unfamiliar world. My first encounter was with the chaotic and confusing La Aurora airport on the outskirts of Guatemala City. Instead of the usual “red” or “green” channel choice at customs, arriving travelers were tasked with pressing a button connected to traffic lights that randomly determined their fate. My light turned red, but the officials still allowed me to pass through without issue, focusing their attention on a man with an excessive amount of luggage that left me wondering how the plane had even managed to take off from Florida.
When I finally left the terminal, I was met with chaos – a mix of people waiting, greeting, and trying to hustle. The darkness of night added to the confusion. The taxi driver I eventually got drove through a run-down industrial area instead of the main road to the city center. I couldn’t help but think I was being kidnapped.
Thirty-six years, one month, and one day after, I experienced the same lack of control and understanding of the situation. This time, I was leaving Guatemala City by plane, and everything was just as I had remembered. The only noticeable difference was the presence of occasional wifi. This was a recurring theme during my time in the country, which offers the best of Central America and plenty of warm winter weather.
City life on the streets of Guatemala City.
Although certain aspects of traveling alone in Guatemala have changed over time, the majority of it remains a non-digital adventure. In my numerous trips, I have not been kidnapped and have instead encountered helpful and friendly individuals who allow visitors to explore a volcanic terrain abundant in native traditions and delectable Guatemalan dishes. As you leave the city tightly nestled in a valley between mountains.
One significant improvement in the capital: enhanced safety. In the past, it was common knowledge among backpackers to leave Guatemala City as soon as possible. The longer you stayed, the higher the chances of falling victim to theft. I have personally experienced enough situations in Central American cities (including a failed robbery attempt in San Jose) to be cautious after dark. However, during the day, police presence is ubiquitous – to the point that I question the necessity of having armed guards outside banks and high-end stores. With only the essentials of a phone, guidebook, local currency (quetzales), and credit card, I was able to comfortably walk a large portion of this elongated and narrow metropolis. Guatemala City sprawls as far as the volcanoes allow.
Exploring on foot is the ideal way to experience the simple yet charming churches, bustling shopping streets, and the modest Plaza Central (the main square), where local vendors sell freshly sliced papaya. After recharging with a 10 quetzales (£1) snack, I ventured to the striking 1970s cultural center, situated on a hill and softened with curves. Surprisingly, visitors are allowed to freely roam the concrete complex using a somewhat precarious network of staircases. In the past, this would have been prohibited, as it was located away from the main area and known to attract unsavory characters looking to prey on unsuspecting backpackers.
From atop the cultural center, I observed the city in all its untidiness while holding onto a short balcony wall. For a brief moment, I felt removed from the chaos and severe pollution. The traffic was bad in 1988, but it has only worsened since then. The only saving grace for public transportation is the TransMetro buses, distinguished by their green color and designated stops. Instead of a conductor, passengers pay by tapping their credit cards. I am anticipating seeing the 1 quetzal (10p) charge on my statement. During rush hour, the buses are packed with over 100 people on a single level. While payment is contactless, the experience is far from smooth. As the joke goes: how many people can you cram onto a Guatemalan bus? The answer: two more. Pushing your way off a TransMetro bus at the correct stop may not have made it as an Olympic event in 1988 (Seoul) or 2024 (Paris), but I am sure it would attract a large audience.
“Chicken buses” are identical to their 1988 forebears. The standard conveyance in Central America is a former American school bus that has passed its best-before date. But what is no longer good enough for US schoolchildren is quite sufficient for Central American travellers plus their extensive luggage, and on market days their livestock.
Simon Calder’s driving ambition was to take the bus from Antigua to Magdalen.
The most popular buses are elaborately adorned and travel frequently on busy routes, such as from Guatemala City to the spiritual center of the nation, Antigua. These buses make their way up the winding highway to the mountain pass every two or three minutes. The conductor picks up passengers along the road, including both delicate ladies in vibrant shawls and backpackers. While he collects fare from passengers, he spends most of the trip leaning out of the door (this also creates more space inside) and shouting the destination of the crowded bus to anyone who will listen. In my experience, he is also kind and helpful to confused and burdened visitors.
“Always avoid looking like a tourist when backpacking in Latin America – this is crucial advice. People with fair skin who have just arrived from a cold northern winter are frequently targeted by thieves. However, on my first night in Antigua, I observed a lone female traveler with a massive backpack calmly navigating directions on her phone, and I am confident that she safely reached her chosen hostel or B&B. The importance of tourism to the Guatemalan economy is now recognized, and visitors are given increased protection – despite the country’s reputation for having one of the highest rates of violent crime in Latin America.”
From the beginning of the 20th century until December 1999, I frequently revisited Guatemala for guidebook research. During that time, maps were manually created to indicate the departure point for buses from Antigua to the capital and the spot where street moneychangers could be found in Guatemala City (specifically, Seventh Avenue between 10th and 13th Streets, where financial services are still offered today).
The life of a guidebook researcher, as well as its users, has undergone changes. However, the fundamentals remain unchanged. The most reliable source of recommendations is not TripAdvisor, but a fellow traveler who has recently been to your destination. Stray from the typical tourist path to uncover a dilapidated chapel on the outskirts of town, where the dedication of stonemasons to their craft and faith is showcased through intricately carved stone. Immerse yourself in the daily life by strolling through the bustling municipal market, filled with vibrant colors and loud noises. Your smartphone can capture both the sights and sounds, but the true experience lies in being present amidst the lively chaos.
Simon Calder, who also goes by the name The Man Who Pays His Way, has been a travel writer for The Independent since 1994. Every week in his column, he delves into important travel topics and how they may affect you.
Source: independent.co.uk
