This year’s London Fashion Week features a provocative combination of office attire and BDSM-inspired fashion on the runway.

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If there is a part of fashion that represents old-fashioned and rigid ideas, it is formal attire. This type of clothing is often worn by CEOs and office workers. However, even traditional pieces like suits, dress shirts, and ties can be transformed into something rebellious. Just like a tired hedge-fund manager at the end of the day, these items can also become unraveled with the smallest change. In the highly competitive and stressful world of London’s fashion industry, it’s not surprising that tailoring has become more daring and unconventional.

The 40th anniversary of London Fashion Week is a moment of relief rather than celebration. Without Burberry’s efforts to attract press from the US and Europe, it could have been a dire situation. However, we are here and, in true British fashion, we are ready to turn this serious event into a lively and exciting party. Similar to how rules and professionalism are disregarded at office drinks, resulting in Jenny and Mike from HR behaving inappropriately on top of the photocopier, the runways this season have taken a steamier turn. The previous preference for Savile Row styles and muted elegance has been replaced with a more daring and edgy approach. Quiet luxury has been put aside for a more thrilling and bold display this season.

Following closely behind New York, where the trend of NSFW office attire was first seen – such as Luar’s bulky double-breasted leather jackets, Tory Burch’s transparent flasher raincoats, and Thom Browne’s literally bursting boardroom blazers – London’s designers have fully embraced the kinky corporate-core trend. Edward Crutchley, a beloved designer in London known for his high-femme silk brocades and cheeky smut references, exemplified this trend by taking a typical jacquard overcoat and giving it a wild twist with an animal print inspired by African dogs. To top it off, he added a cowboy hat designed by Stephen Jones in the same animal print. Are you a commuter with a thing for cowboys? Perhaps.

Crutchley also presented a more streamlined and personalized overcoat, featuring exaggerated sloping shoulders and designed by the ever-playful Julian Ganio, who disregarded the shirt underneath. The woman in question, a London fashionista, casually held a cigarette as she strolled, exuding a nonchalant post-coital vibe. At first glance, it appeared to be effortless French-girl chic, but behind the appearance was a customized fiberglass frame. “I wanted to really emphasize the width of the shoulders without making the garment too stiff or structured,” explained Crutchley. “Instead of adding onto the coat, we added onto the body itself.” Quite seductive!

At Sinéad O’Dwyer, the top-level employees dressed in a style that included lace and lingerie, making a clear reference to workplace dress codes before altering them completely. Her well-known grid-like bodysuits were made with a mix of cotton shirts over the chest and paired with unattractive Ecco shoes. In addition, halterneck dresses imitated the look of dress shirts and ties, inspired by Japanese bondage knots. Tops had neat pleats that are typical of the non-iron shirts from Charles Tyrwhitt, and some even had collared shirts with two buttons that were shaped to fit the chest. Some of these tops also had neckties or were made with stretchy, corset-like material incorporated into the design.

“I have a strong interest in men’s fashion, specifically dressing and tailoring. Recently, I’ve noticed a tense atmosphere in London, which has made things quite challenging. I found inspiration in the mundane routines of daily life, but wanted to infuse a touch of fantasy and rebellion against corporate norms. My designs featured box-pleated skirts in shades of salmon and beige, with buckled details reminiscent of loosened trouser braces or garters. Rollneck sweaters were also incorporated, creating a subtle yet distinguished silhouette. This collection explores the tension between restriction and sexual freedom, seamlessly blending Swarovski-encrusted stretch fabrics.”

Fashion East’s show was arguably the most provocative event of the day. It featured a mix of designers, starting with Johanna Parv who usually focuses on cycling-inspired clothing but shifted to a more sophisticated style. Her designs included upturned collars with hidden zippers along the shoulders, creating a relaxed and techy look. Other pieces in the show included office skirts layered with bike shorts, blazers with hidden lapels, and extremely short skirts. The overall effect was like an office orgy, with a touch of sexiness from secretaries participating in a cycle-to-work program.

The show was then followed up by Olly Shinder’s fetish-fashion bonanza, replete with patent leather fisherman trousers, elasticated gauntlets and slickly tailored workwear. Here, the icing on the cake was the steely office-apt eyeglasses adorning each model, and the twisted, necktie shirting that darted along the front for a fragile, queer take on the tedium of modern corporate style. Imagine meeting your work colleagues in a Berlin darkroom. That was the vibe.

It appears that in London, dressing in a sophisticated and appropriate manner is seen as a way to rebel. With the rising costs of living leading to tighter budgets for designer clothes, there is a desire in London to add a playful and provocative twist to professional attire. While the dress code for the professional class may not be exciting, it is a uniform and that adds an element of allure.

Source: independent.co.uk