Optional fascinators: The intricate unwritten guidelines for fashion at the Cheltenham festival.

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Do women have to wear a fascinator? Are men expected to dress as if they are attending a shooting party hosted by Julian Fellowes? Is tweed a necessity? And what if it rains? When thinking of Cheltenham races, which begin today (12 March), one typically imagines a multitude of countryside-inspired herringbones and checks, fur collars, and an abundance of fedoras, likely embellished with pheasant feathers.

However, unlike other horse riding competitions which have typically implemented strict and often specific dress regulations, Cheltenham has never officially established a policy regarding attire on race day. The anticipation that attendees would dress elegantly was simply an unspoken norm, as is common in upscale events involving horses. However, this changed slightly last year when the Jockey Club, the organisation in charge of 15 renowned racecourses in Britain (such as Aintree and Epsom, but not Ascot which is known for its complex dress code), eliminated any requirements for attire at all of their venues. The only restriction that remained was for attire deemed offensive, including fancy dress, any type of offensive clothing, and replica sports jerseys.

This movement was an effort to revamp the image of horse racing, with the goal of making it more accessible and inclusive. According to Nevin Truesdale, the chief executive of Jockey Club, having a strict dress code is seen as outdated by many racegoers in the 21st century. As a result, attendees at all Jockey Club events are now encouraged to dress comfortably and confidently. While this is all fine and good, it does leave a lot of room for interpretation. It is similar to when your mother says she doesn’t really want anything for her birthday – it’s vague and can lead to potential issues. However, not everyone is pleased with these changes. Milliner Jonny Beardsall expressed his disapproval, stating that it promotes mediocrity.

The 2023 event saw an increase in the number of jeans, trainers, and even tracksuits worn, which may have been unexpected in previous years. However, this does not seem to be a concern for attendees of the Cheltenham event, as there has not been a noticeable change in the overall fashion choices. Personal stylist Lindsay Edwards notes that most people still aim to dress up for the races. This year, Ladies’ Day has been renamed as “Style Wednesday” and will focus on sustainable and vintage fashion, including the use of rented and heirloom pieces to create a unique look.

How can one plan their outfit for Cheltenham? Begin by checking the weather forecast to determine the conditions. According to Edwards, fabrics like wool, tweed, and bouclé are ideal for poor weather, as well as bonded cotton with water-repelling qualities. It is also recommended to bring a transparent umbrella, a tip used by Queen Elizabeth to be both seen and protected from the rain. In cooler weather, Hasler suggests considering a jumpsuit or even tights as a layering option. For a bolder look, a co-ord trouser suit in a warm fabric like velvet, inspired by Claudia Winkleman in The Traitors, could be a statement choice.

Consider the overall impact when choosing your outfit. If you’ll be spending the whole day outside, it’s possible that your entire outfit won’t be fully visible”, cautions Hasler. Instead of hastily putting on a rain jacket at the last minute, look for a warm and stylish alternative. Otherwise, you may end up looking more like a stressed-out football manager than a chic racegoer. Hasler recommends opting for longer styles in fuzzy teddy, fake fur, or elegant felt. And as for shoes? Be aware that uncomfortable heels in the beginning of the day may become unbearable by the end of the races,” advises Masler. Stilettos are not a good choice, as you may find yourself struggling to free your thin heels from mud with every step. “If you do choose heels, make sure they have a strong block heel so you don’t sink into the grass,” suggests Louise Duncum, personal stylist at Weiz Styles. “A platform sole is also a great option for added height and foot comfort.”

When it comes to selecting a color, Lindsay Edwards suggests that men should consider options such as olive green or brown for a well-tailored suit, as well as checkered or herringbone tweed. Similarly, for women attending races and looking for a subtle look, she recommends navy, plum, or olive green. If unsure about which colors to wear, Edwards suggests experimenting with teal or Cadbury’s purple, as these shades are flattering for all skin tones. However, white or cream may not be the best choices, as they can easily show traces of mud during the event. After all, it’s early spring in Gloucestershire, not a summer day in the Riviera.

Basically, you don’t have to dress up as a lord or lady of the manor cosplay or follow current fashion trends. According to fashion consultant and course leader at the University of East London, Alison Lowe, the most fashionable attendees will mix timeless classics with a few trendy pieces for a balanced and sophisticated look. And no, you don’t have to wear a fascinator if you don’t like it.

Lowe advises against wearing over the top hats at Cheltenham and suggests reserving them for Ascot instead. Message received.

Source: independent.co.uk