How Kate Moss’s sleazy, spectacular Calvin Klein campaigns changed fashion forever

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When Calvin Klein first launched their campaign featuring Kate Moss, who is now 50, the model from Croydon quickly became an iconic figure. At just 17 years old, her images were not only popular among teenagers, but also represented the minimalist and inclusive aesthetic of the time. However, the photos, taken by Herb Ritts, Mario Sorrenti, and Steven Klein, were also controversial, with tabloids and trade magazines criticizing the “heroin chic” trend and Moss’s thin appearance. This was further fueled by her naturally slim figure and association with a rebellious crowd since she was 13.

The battle was two-sided, and it was just like many other popular cultural moments that led to her fame. Despite being criticized, Moss was also seen as a representation of Cool Britannia, playing a key role in the popularity of 90s pop culture and serving as a contrast to the glamorous models of the 80s. While she was considered a supermodel by Vogue, she also had a more authentic and relatable persona, embracing her imperfections and embodying the distinct awkwardness of British culture, which only disappeared when she walked down the runway. Her contract with Klein not only solidified her status as a top model, but also marked the rise of British influence in the global fashion industry.

This change can be observed subtly in the background of Moss’s narrative. According to the story, when Moss was 14 years old, she was returning from the Bahamas with her father, who was a travel agent, and was discovered by the brother of casting director Sarah Doukas. Following that, Moss spent two years attending “go-sees” (industry terminology for meetings with agencies and potential clients). At the young age of 16 in 1990, she appeared on the cover of youth culture magazine The Face, photographed by her friend Corinne Day.

Named “The 3rd Summer of Love,” the photoshoot featured Moss making a scrunched face, as instructed by Day, and playing around on the beaches of Camber Sands in Britain. It was raw and authentic, hinting at her simple yet captivating appeal. According to The Face’s style and culture editor, TJ Sidhu, “Besides her unexplainable beauty, Moss still had the appearance of a typical teenager you could have gone to school with or seen shopping on the high street. She was a relatable figure, who wouldn’t stand out while having a pint with friends at the local pub.”

Completing a comprehensive editorial, the Face photoshoot also served as Moss’s first exposure to the intrusive nature of the fashion industry. Moss has shared that she cried multiple times on set and was pressured by Day to pose topless – a common request from designers and photographers throughout her career. The photoshoot holds conflicting significance for Moss, as it played a major role in Klein selecting her for his suggestive “My Calvins” campaign. Despite her potential lack of preparation, Moss was already on the radar of the New York fashion scene. Therefore, when photographer Patrick Demarchelier referred her to Klein, it was a definite decision.

In 1992, the Herb Ritts advertising campaign was launched, featuring supermodel Kate Moss and Mark Wahlberg, who was known at the time as the brash and sexist rapper Marky Mark. The photoshoot was a stylish black-and-white narrative, with Wahlberg posing shirtless in his Calvin Klein underwear and jeans while embracing Moss, who was also dressed in Calvin Klein. The campaign also included shots of Moss sitting on top of Wahlberg and a solo portrait of Wahlberg grabbing his crotch. A video was also filmed, in which Wahlberg comments on Moss’s freckles while she poses silently.

Despite its uncomfortable nature, it is now known that Moss had negative opinions of Wahlberg and struggled with anxiety before the shoot. However, this controversy ultimately propelled her into stardom. By appealing to viewers’ desires, Klein found a way to elevate mundane fashion to the height of popularity. Want to exude hotness and sexiness? Just follow Moss’s lead. According to Joseph Kocharian, fashion and beauty director for Rolling Stone and Attitude, there was a strong connection with consumers. Unlike other models known for their lavish lifestyles, Moss represented a relatable style that could be emulated by anyone, even if it wasn’t Calvin Klein.

This is also logical. Klein has been recognized as a highly astute designer, understanding how to successfully market products while maintaining the prestige of his brand. Fashion writer Richard Gray states, “His genius was in being able to capture the current trends and then sell them back to us.” This partnership greatly elevated both Moss and Klein.

In 1993, Moss and her then-boyfriend Sorrenti collaborated on a major campaign for Klein, which showcased their talents. Klein took advantage of the profitable fragrance market by hiring the couple to create a seductive and alluring campaign. With Sorrenti’s obsession with photographing Moss, it was easy for him to capture the essence of the fragrance, appropriately named Obsession.

With wet hair, razored cheekbones and a childlike frame, Moss poses with a camisole half undone, or topless in a foetal slumber, showcasing what Sorrenti dubbed a “primitive beauty”. Again, in black and white, it’s a cold and haunting campaign, fetishising her fragility and youth as the pinnacle of beauty. Klein addressed this bluntly in the 1998 documentary Beautopia, describing Moss’s young looks as edgy and stimulating for men, an admission that further muddies this treasured moment in fashion history.

However, this fixation on youth, while concerning, could also be seen as relatable. Moss had a lot in common with her fans – they were both young and familiar – and the Western world was experiencing a surge in youth culture. Moss embodied the down-to-earth girl that we all could relate to. With her high-pitched voice, love for dancing, and simple language, the Estuary English-speaking, middle-class model was likable in a way that the typically arrogant supermodel Naomi Campbell was not.

When Steven Meisel’s Calvin Klein Jeans ad campaign featuring Moss was released in 1995, she had already become a spokesperson for our more rebellious tendencies, justifying our casual speech and weekend behaviors. Meisel, known for his polished work, chose a more rugged approach for the shoot. Moss, wearing a tank top, posed in front of a pine curtain and leaned on a ladder. The atmosphere had a hint of “casting couch” from a porn studio, which was emphasized in the campaign’s behind-the-scenes footage. Klein can be heard directing Moss to undo her jeans and lower them down her waist, while she responds playfully. Once again, it exudes a carefree, do-it-yourself attitude, tainted by a sleazy undertone.

As Moss approaches the age of 50, what should we make of her enduring and concerning campaigns? Despite overcoming character attacks and being scapegoated for anorexia, she has evolved from her past and remains the same toast-loving, tea-drinking girl we adored. She still has her vices and struggles with expressing herself, but her transformation into a mindful gardener in the quiet Cotswolds is commendable. However, this does not discount her time as the face of Calvin Klein. It simply requires a new perspective. Her reign as a cultural icon during a different era was groundbreaking and should be recognized in history.

Source: independent.co.uk