The intricate unspoken guidelines for fashion at the Cheltenham festival.

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Do women have to wear a fascinator? Do men have to dress for a shooting party with Julian Fellowes? Is tweed a must? And what if it rains? When thinking of Cheltenham races starting today (12 March), one would likely imagine all of the aforementioned: a plethora of countryside patterns and styles, fur collars, and an abundance of fedoras, possibly decorated with pheasant feathers.

While other equestrian events have traditionally enforced strict dress codes, Cheltenham has not had an official policy for race day attire. It was expected that ticket holders would dress appropriately, following the unwritten rules common at upscale events involving horses. However, last year there was a loosening of regulations. The Jockey Club, which owns 15 of the UK’s most renowned racecourses including Aintree, Epsom, Sandown, and Cheltenham (but not Ascot, known for its complex dress code), removed specific dress rules for all of its venues. The only prohibited clothing includes offensive fancy dress, offensive clothing, and replica sports shirts.

This action was part of an effort to revamp the reputation of the racing industry and make it more welcoming and inclusive. According to Nevin Truesdale, the chief executive of the Jockey Club, enforcing a dress code can be seen as outdated in the 21st century by many race attendees. Now, the organization’s events encourage attendees to dress as they feel comfortable and confident, which leaves room for interpretation. It is similar to when your mother says she doesn’t need anything for her birthday – unclear and potentially tricky. However, not everyone is happy with this change. Milliner Jonny Beardsall commented to The Times before last year’s races that it is a terrible idea as it promotes mediocrity.

The 2023 event reports indicated that there were a greater number of jeans, trainers, and even tracksuits than in previous years. However, this should not be a cause for concern among the devoted Cheltenham attendees. Personal stylist Lindsay Edwards notes that there seems to be minimal change in the outfit choices of guests, with the majority still opting to dress up for the races. This year, Ladies’ Day has been renamed as “Style Wednesday,” with a focus on sustainable fashion and incorporating vintage, borrowed, and inherited items into one’s wardrobe (rental platforms may come in handy for achieving this style).

How can one plan their outfit for Cheltenham? It is recommended to first check the weather forecast to determine the conditions. According to Edwards, fabrics like wool, tweed, and bouclé are suitable for poor weather, along with bonded cotton which repels water. She also suggests packing a clear umbrella, as Queen Elizabeth used to do, for both visibility and style. For colder days, Susie Hasler, a personal stylist, recommends a jumpsuit with the option of wearing tights under, or a bold choice of a co-ord trouser suit in a warm fabric like velvet, inspired by Claudia Winkleman’s look in “The Traitors.”

Additionally, it is important to consider the overall impact. If you plan on spending the entire day outdoors, “your outfit may not be fully visible,” according to Hasler. She advises against throwing on a rain jacket at the last minute and instead recommends opting for a warm and elegant alternative. Otherwise, you may end up looking more like a stressed football manager on the sidelines than a stylish racegoer. Hasler suggests choosing longer styles made of cozy fabrics like teddy, faux fur, or felt. And when it comes to footwear? Masler wisely reminds us to keep comfort in mind because uncomfortable heels can turn into a nightmare by the end of the day. Stilettos are not a good idea, unless you enjoy struggling to walk through the mud while trying to keep your delicate heels from getting stuck. “If you do opt for heels, make sure they have a sturdy block heel to avoid sinking into the grass,” advises Louise Duncum, a personal stylist at Weiz Styles. “A platform sole is also a great option for adding height while still providing comfort for your feet.”

According to Lindsay Edwards, when choosing a color, men should opt for country-inspired shades like olive green or brown, as well as patterns like checks or herringbone tweed. For women who want a more simplistic look, she recommends navy, plum, or olive green. If uncertain about which colors suit them, she suggests trying teal or a deep purple that is universally flattering. However, she advises against wearing white or cream, as it may make mud stains more noticeable during early spring events in Gloucestershire. She reminds readers it’s not summer on the Riviera.

In essence, dressing up as a lord or lady of the manor or following trends is not necessary. According to fashion consultant and MBA Fashion Entrepreneurship course leader at the University of East London, Alison Lowe, the most stylish attendees will combine timeless classics with a few trendy elements for a well-balanced and sophisticated look. And no, you are not required to wear a fascinator if that is not your style (just me?).

According to Lowe, Cheltenham is not the appropriate setting for excessively extravagant headwear. Save that kind of headpiece for Ascot instead.

The Independent

The Independent news source at independent.co.uk