Sean McGirr, a new designer, is referencing past collections from Alexander McQueen for his controversial debut.

The fashion industry had its attention fixed on the Alexander McQueen fall/winter 2024 lineup presented during Paris Fashion Week, featuring a reminiscent nod to the past.

A black dress made of latex, which was worn by a model with her hands wrapped around her chest, was reminiscent of the spring/summer 1999 collection and a similar style worn by Spanish model Esther Canadas.

At the fashion giant, Irish designer Sean McGirr’s first collection began with an impactful statement that established the overall tone.

In October of last year, McGirr was announced as the new creative director of Alexander McQueen. He drew much of his inspiration from the brand’s archives.

The assortment of bulky, large sweaters in black, brown, and white appeared to be a nod to the fall/winter 1999 collection, named The Overlook, which drew inspiration from Stanley Kubrick’s 1980 movie, The Shining.

McGirr avoided using designs that were too closely associated with the brand’s namesake, the late designer Alexander ‘Lee’ McQueen, like skull patterns and plaid prints.

Whether a deliberate nod to his Irish roots or not, Irish singer Enya’s Orinoco Flow was the soundtrack near the end of the collection and added a nice touch of late Eighties nostalgia.

The shoes in the collection were designed to resemble horse hooves, with fringe resembling horse hair and horse shoes attached. They were a prominent feature that could not be overlooked.

The brand’s unique and bold footwear, including the iconic 30-centimetre-high Armadillo boot from the spring/summer 2010 collection (McQueen’s final collection), remains a standout piece.

Debra Shaw, a favored model of Lee McQueen and a beloved figure at the house, made an appearance on the runway donning a black suit with sharp, angular shoulders, a characteristic often seen on the runway.

Although there are numerous subtle references to previous collections, the autumn/winter 2024 collection for Alexander McQueen seemed to mark the start of a fresh chapter.

Glamorous satin gowns and dresses adorned with shattered mirror pieces, along with exaggerated peplum jackets and tops, added a playful touch to the fashion show.

However, initial reviews of the show have criticized it for not being customized enough, not being daring enough, and not featuring enough patterns.

In summary, the recent collections by new creative director Sarah Burton have a distinct feel from those of the past. Burton, who was in charge for 13 years, gained recognition for her designs, including the iconic wedding gown for the Princess of Wales in 2011. During her time at McQueen, she made a notable impact with bold outfits that embraced the female figure, featuring sharp cuts and striking shapes.

Celebrities such as Cate Blanchett, Lady Gaga, and Michelle Obama were all spotted wearing her clothing, along with her devoted royal fan base.

Instead, it appeared that McGirr’s collection was targeting a younger audience interested in fashion. Some of the pieces, such as the plastic dresses with artistic shapes, gave off a futuristic vibe reminiscent of the famous Bell Jar dress from the spring/summer 2009 collection. These dresses could easily be worn by a budding celebrity on the red carpet.

One of the attendees was I.N. from the South Korean boy band, Stray Kids. He sported a lengthy, black coat similar to leather with a cinched waist, reminiscent of a runway fashion.

Additionally, in the first row were Salma Hayek and Juliette Binoche, both dressed in stylish ensembles – Hayek in a sharp suit with a silver bodice peeking out, and Binoche in a flowing white outfit.

In the middle of February, McGirr provided us with our initial glimpse of his concept for the fashion brand, strongly implying that he would draw inspiration from the brand’s historical records.

During the campaign, Debra Shaw and Frankie Rayder, who had previously walked the runway under the brand’s founder, were featured in a forest. They were seen wearing skull masks and touches of tartan, which are iconic elements of the label’s identity.

Previously, McGirr held the position of head of ready-to-wear at JW Anderson and has experience working at Burberry and Dries Van Noten.

Source: independent.co.uk