Exchange the Alps with Slovakia’s Tatras Mountains for budget-friendly skiing.

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Typically, those who are extremely wealthy arrive at 10am in order to hit the ski slopes by 11am. However, skiing in Slovakia is reasonably priced, allowing the average person to experience the luxury lifestyle as well.

It is true that the twice-weekly flights from London Stansted to Poprad-Tatry are operated by Ryanair, rather than Learjets. However, this does not qualify as mass tourism, as the new route has simply doubled the existing number of flights to the small airport. The only other flights are the long-standing twice-weekly ones offered by Wizz Air from Luton.

In a short 15-minute timeframe, my spouse and I arrived at Slovakia’s second largest resort, Tatranska Lomnica. The resort boasts nine lifts and 12km of ski runs, with a high elevation of 2,200m. The lifts are predominantly swift, and the updated fees start at €24 per day, rather than the typical starting price of €50 in the Alps. With snow-covered mountains in the backdrop and a stunning view of the expansive valley below, we gracefully glided down the blue and red runs, which flattered our skiing techniques.

Unfortunately, the winds were too fierce, resulting in the closure of the upper slopes (as in the Alps, wind is often a more prevalent issue than insufficient snow). Thankfully, Slovakia’s Tatras mountains offer a wide variety of non-skiing activities at an affordable cost.

At Lomnica, one can take a snowcat to the former cable car stop and indulge in a four-course dinner by the fireplace with candles for €52 at the Retro Station. Additionally, there are relaxing spas located in charming, traditional Art Nouveau hotels, characterized by their steep roofs and whimsical conical towers. Among these is the lavish Grand Hotel Praha, where double rooms start at €162 per night and include ski passes and breakfast. It is highly recommended to check it out.

More affordable lodging is in Poprad itself, reachable by tram (€1.50) or bus. Many B&Bs (doubles at around €50) are not far from the old town, with its 12^th

Restaurants, theater, and museums line a cobbled boulevard, with a century-old church and clock tower also situated along the street.

On the other hand, Poprad is primarily an urban area where a significant number of freight wagons are manufactured. Its railway system enables it to be accessed via train from London in approximately 23 hours, typically requiring three to four transfers.

Poprad has two additional ski resorts that can be accessed by tram. One of them is Starý Smokovec, which is surrounded by Hapsburg-era spa hotels and has limited facilities with only three lifts and 4km of pistes, making it suitable for beginner skiers. However, a must-visit is the ice palace located at the top of the funicular railway. It is built every November and this year’s version is a replica of Westminster Abbey, honoring the Queen’s visit to the High Tatras 15 years ago. One can also enjoy a thrilling 2.5km sled ride after visiting the ice palace.

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Exploring this area of the world is relatively simple, as most people here comprehend English, even if they are unable to speak it. Take a €2 tram ride to the third largest resort in Slovakia, Štrbské Pleso. Positioned on a snowy, elevated plateau, this spot is more of a classic ski destination compared to Lomnica. It would be a good idea to spend one or two nights here, whether at the luxurious Kempinski hotel (with double rooms starting at €243 per night including breakfast) or the Penzión Pleso (with double rooms starting at €58 per night without breakfast). Staying true to its Communist roots, the High Tatras mountains continue to be accessible to everyone (and remnants of the Communist era can be found throughout, from the stylish triangular hotels of the 1970s to strict concierges who demand a fee of 50 cents for using the restroom).

By this point, the wind was extremely powerful, causing all eight lifts and eight kilometers of slopes in Štrbské Pleso to shut down. However, this did not completely ruin our trip. The resort is famous for its cross-country skiing, as it was originally built by the Czechoslovak government to host Nordic skiing competitions. We smoothly glided on thin skis alongside people walking on the frozen lake, then ascended to admire breathtaking sights of rocky mountains, and finally descended through forest trails, passing by children riding on snowtubes, until we reached the resort again.

Wooden stands in this location serve affordable lunches such as a €6 goats cheese salad, a €5 burger, or a €4.50 wrap. However, we opted for the chic Soviet-style Hotel FIS, where their sophisticated restaurant offers delicious main courses for just €12.50, and their poppy seed dessert priced at €7.50 is like a masterpiece compared to the stunning architecture. A pint of beer costs €3.90, but for a non-alcoholic option, try Kofola – a drink created as a Communist alternative to capitalist Coke that has a less sweet and more nuanced taste.

While Štrbské Pleso is charming, Slovakia only has one ski resort that will satisfy highly skilled downhill skiers for approximately one week. That resort is Jasná, which offers 50km of slopes and 20 lifts. It is conveniently located 45 minutes away from Poprad airport and has a long season, making it a great option for Easter vacations. Last year, it closed on May 5th.

During our visit in early February, the resort had recently held a World Cup event. After practicing on the more manageable blue slopes, we raced down the adrenaline-inducing 3km track with a 900m drop.

We decided to go directly to the hotel spa to relax. Our accommodation was at the upscale Hotel Pošta, located right next to the slopes, where guests could be seen wearing white dressing gowns. However, Jasná has a variety of ski-in, ski-out hotels available for different budgets. One option is the Hotel Ski, which offers double rooms starting at €92 per night, including lift passes and breakfast.

Conveniently located near the slope, the following morning we met at 6:45am to enjoy tea, coffee, or even prosecco at the Crystal Bar’s flamepit for the Fresh Track experience (€69). Taking the 7am gondola up, we had the entire slope to ourselves and spent the morning carving carefree, sweeping S-shapes from side to side on the tree-lined corduroy runs.

We waited until the ski slopes became crowded with regular visitors before heading to the included breakfast at the Rotunda panoramic restaurant located at 2,024m. For an additional cost of €86 per person, you can also indulge in a six-course sunset dinner here. But the highlight is Jasná’s lunch option, where you can enjoy charcuterie and prosecco inside a cozy cabin on the A2 gondola for just €15.

Also unique to Jasná is its accessible freeride skiing, with off-piste areas shown on the piste map that start above the treeline and pass between evenly spaced trees. But with the weather against us, my husband headed to the Tatralandia spa, which he raved about, while I skidded inelegantly down all the heart-pounding black runs.

Unfortunately, we had to leave with many unfinished activities on our list. These included venturing into the ice caves near Jasná, taking a dip in the thermal springs and waterfall at Lipovský Ján, and touring the beautiful wooden churches and reconstructed villages. For the thrill-seekers, there is also the option of indoor skydiving at Tatralandia’s Hurricane Factory for €99 per person.

I securely buckled my seatbelt at the small and exclusive Poprad airport. Unfortunately, I had to wait until the next time for my skydiving adventure.

Ryanair offers flights from London Stansted to Slovakia’s Poprad-Tatry airport twice a week for a starting price of £33 round trip. Wizz Air also flies from Luton to Poprad-Tatry twice a week with a starting price of £36 round trip.

Tatranska Lomnica, Stary Smokovec, and Strbske Pleso are linked by standard tram lines to Poprad. It costs €80 for four individuals to travel to Jasna from Poprad and takes 45 minutes.

In AquaCity, Poprad, the starting price for double rooms is €99. This cost includes breakfast and access to the pool and spa. It is a one-of-a-kind experience for families with children, offering a combination of a lively waterpark and a peaceful spa that is exclusively for adults. Both facilities are heated by thermal water.

When booking TMR hotels, the cost will cover lift passes as well.

Ski passes for the High Tatras resorts in Tatranska Lomnica, Stary Smokovec, and Strbske Pleso begin at €24 per day and also grant entry to AquaCity.

Access to Jasná can be obtained for the price of €30 per day, and the lift pass also includes admission to the Tatralandia and Besenova water parks.

Source: independent.co.uk