Subscribe to Simon Calder’s complimentary email newsletter for professional tips and cost-cutting deals on travel.
Receive the Travel email from Simon Calder.
Lithuania’s cute capital has the feel of a supersized village. Venture beyond the fortresses and weathered chunks of city wall and you’ll find plenty of reminders of its tumultuous past, whether it’s the Soviet-era architecture or the numerous historic sites – many of which have only opened up to the public in recent years, and which provide a fascinating insight into its darker periods.
Aside from its charming historic district filled with friendly pubs and independent stores, Vilnius also offers delicious Lithuanian cuisine and unique attractions such as an art exhibit in a former prison and a miniature “republic” village. Visitors may even recognize familiar scenes from the TV series Chernobyl, as some of it was filmed here. With Vilnius celebrating its 700th anniversary in 2023, there’s no better time to visit.
If you are preparing to go to the city, here is all the information you need.
What to do
and grab some delicious food while enjoying live music at the
Swing by the cathedral square for a tasty meal and groove to live music.
To begin your self-guided exploration, start at Katedros Aikste (Cathedral Square), where you can visit the Basilica of St Stanislaus and St Ladislaus. This building was once a Pagan temple and is now the resting place of Lithuania’s patron saint, Casimir. If you’re feeling lucky, look for the Stebuklas tile near Vilnius Cathedral. This tile is said to be a “miracle” and marks the end of the Baltic Way, a human chain formed on 23 August 1989 by two million people across Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania to protest Soviet occupation. According to legend, standing on the tile, spinning three times clockwise, jumping up and clapping once will make your wishes come true.
Learn more about traveling in Europe.
Discover the history of the Soviet Union
The Museum of Occupations and Freedom Fights, also known as the “KGB museum”, is located in the former headquarters of the Soviet secret police. It offers a chilling but necessary look into the darker aspects of the city’s past. The museum was also featured in the show Chernobyl. Upstairs, visitors can view exhibitions about the anti-Soviet partisans who organized their resistance from the surrounding forests. Downstairs, you can see the cells where the KGB interrogated those who opposed Soviet rule. These cells include a frightening padded room used for interrogation, as well as various disturbing tools such as straitjackets and small platforms that prisoners were forced to stand on. Perhaps the most haunting area is the execution room, where thousands of prisoners were killed.
Spend a day incarcerated.
The Lukiskes Prison, which served as a location in the show Stranger Things, was established in 1904 and ceased operations in 2019. It housed various prisoners, including those incarcerated during both world wars, the Soviet occupation, and after Lithuania gained independence. In 2021, it was opened to the public and now offers guided tours of its remarkably well-preserved corridors. Visitors can see hiding spots used by inmates, the graffiti they left behind, and the items they created while evading surveillance, such as a homemade gun. The central courtyard has been transformed into a performance area and a “cellblock bar” is available for patrons to enjoy cocktails. Additionally, former prison cells have been repurposed as studio spaces for artists, who also organize frequent art exhibitions.
Take a look at Užupis.
Located near the heart of the city, Užupis is a vibrant neighborhood situated along the river. In 1997, it declared itself as a republic and has since become a hub for artists, writers, and musicians. The neighborhood’s spirit is captured in its constitution, which can be found on Paupio Street. The core values have been translated into multiple languages and etched onto metal plaques. While there are a few cafes and craft shops, the true charm lies in the neighborhood’s eccentricity. One must-see spot is the Užupis Border Control building, which serves as both an information center and souvenir shop. Visitors can even get their passports stamped with the Užupis Republic seal.
Where to stay
Vilnius boasts several exquisite boutique hotels, such as the stunning (albeit expensive) Hotel Pacai. The hotel is located in an old town Baroque palace and features a spa, hammam, and luxurious marble interiors.
The Hilton Garden Inn is a unique and modern hotel with a rooftop terrace and stylish decor. The design team responsible for its creation has incorporated references to the country’s history, such as a fireplace resembling a Pagan altar. (Note: Lithuania was the last Pagan nation in Europe, but eventually converted to Catholicism in the 14th century.)
Lokys Restaurant is situated in a medieval merchant’s residence and is known for their specialty “hunters’ dishes,” such as roasted venison, wild boar, and beaver stew.
Looking to save money on meals? Vilnius is well-known for its canteens, which are affordable and enjoyable restaurants that offer traditional Soviet-era dishes. Give Zilvino Restoranas a try, where a serving of tasty borscht (a popular beetroot soup in Eastern Europe) costs only €2.50.
For a chic atmosphere, visit Paupys Market – a spacious and green-filled food court offering a variety of cuisine ranging from Japanese specialties to dishes from nearby Lithuania. Be sure to try the Georgian bites at Chacapuri Bistro, particularly the Georgian cheese bread topped with an egg yolk.
Where to drink
Nick and Nora, a quaint cocktail bar located in the old town, is well-known for incorporating locally sourced ingredients into their drinks. Their signature quince negroni features Lithuanian quince, while their penicillin highball balances the smoky bacon schnapps with the sweetness of Lithuanian honey. The main nightlife hub of the city centre is Vilnius Street, lined with pubs and bustling with activity.
Where to shop
The G9 shopping center, located on Gediminas Avenue, is home to popular brands like H&M. However, our preferred destination for retail therapy is the old town, which boasts numerous amazing boutiques. Terra Recognita, in particular, features exquisite jewelry and sculptures crafted by Lithuanian artist Saulius Vaitiekunas. His works often incorporate stones retrieved from the Baltic Sea.
“Baltic amber, also known as “Lithuanian gold,” is created from pine resin that has been washed ashore after millions of years at sea. This prized material can be found everywhere in Lithuania, often in stunning pieces of jewelry. For the finest selection, visit Gintraka at Ausros Vartu 13.”
Nuts and bolts
Which currency is required?
Euros.
What is the language that they speak?
Despite the prevalence of English, Lithuanian remains a commonly spoken language.
Should I tip?
The standard percentage is approximately 10%.
What is the difference in time?
GMT+2.
What is the best way to travel?
Vilnius is a city that is easy to explore on foot, but there is also the option to take trams or buses. Similar to the Oyster card, Vilniecio kortele is the transportation card used in Vilnius. It costs €1.50 to purchase and can be loaded with different time periods, such as 30-minute tickets (€0.65) or three-day passes (€8).
What is the optimal perspective?
Climb to the top of Three Crosses Hill and you will be treated to a breathtaking view of the historic town, the 15th-century Bernardine Garden, and the winding river that runs through the city. The three crosses on the hill were built as a tribute to Franciscan friars who were martyred in the 14th century by being tied to crosses and thrown down the hill by pagans.
Insider tip?
Vilnius University is an explosion of Renaissance, Gothic and Baroque architecture, but don’t just admire it from the perimeter. At the end of a corridor in the university’s Lithuanian Philology Centre is a frescoed hall painted by famous Lithuanian artist Petras Repsys in 1986. The Dali-esque The Seasons of the Year fresco covers the walls and ceilings of several interconnected rooms and depicts scenes from Lithuanian mythology.
Getting there
Flights to Vilnius from London Luton (Ryanair and Wizz Air), Stansted (Ryanair), or City airport (Lot) are available.
Source: independent.co.uk