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In just a few minutes of being in Venice, I couldn’t help but wonder why I hadn’t visited sooner. I’ve spent summers exploring Tuscany, returned to Rome since I was a teenager, and even visited the Dolomites twice this year alone. However, until this winter, I had always avoided Venice.
There is a valid explanation for this situation. Over the past few years, tourism in Venice has faced challenges. In 2023, it was announced that a €5 tax will be imposed on day-trippers. There have been reports of tourists being overcharged for coffee along the Grand Canal and engaging in irresponsible behavior while riding gondolas. Additionally, there are ongoing concerns about the negative impact of tourism on Venice’s infrastructure and environment.
The overwhelming number of tourists in a once beautiful city has deterred me. During my recent visit to Dubrovnik, I endured a grueling 24 hours navigating through crowded streets packed with cruise ship passengers. It left me feeling disheartened by the issue of excessive tourism.
However, the city I encountered in early December was not the typical bustling tourist hotspot. The streets were peaceful, the Ponte Rialto glistening in the gentle light, the locals friendly and talkative, and the dining options reasonably affordable. Although the weather was chilly, it was still warmer than the UK and easily manageable with a good coat and sturdy shoes.
Movies like Don’t Look Now and Death in Venice might give off a dark or deteriorating vibe of the city during winter, but in truth, it’s warm, inviting, and breathtakingly stunning. Throughout the year, the city shines – whether it’s in the sunlight, cold weather, fog, or even rain. However, in the light rain, when residents are cozy in bacaris and St Mark’s Square is deserted, the floating city becomes truly enchanting.
Several organizations have been established to address concerns about preserving Venice and its future. One of these is the US-based nonprofit organization, Save Venice, which has made it their mission to protect the city’s artistic heritage. Since 1971, they have successfully restored over 2,000 artworks by renowned artists such as Titian, Veronese, and Tintoretto.
Melissa Conn, director of the Venice Office of the organisation, recognizes the potential harm that mass tourism can cause to the delicate city. However, she urges us to continue visiting in order to appreciate its rich history and acknowledge the significant influence Venice has had on Western civilization.
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She said to me, “Venice relies on tourism for its survival, but it should be a mindful and regulated form of tourism.” Melissa expressed that Venice welcomes visitors and takes pride in its history.
Venice had to demonstrate its value in relation to more ancient cities like Rome and Constantinople, and solidify its position as a prominent hub for business and trade. To boost the city’s reputation, officials frequently hosted foreign ambassadors and merchants. The grandeur of Venice was intended to showcase its strength, prosperity, and religious dedication.
Indeed, it would be beneficial to continue exploring Venice. However, it is best to refrain from short visits and instead take your time to fully immerse yourself in the city. Alternatively, consider visiting during the winter season when the crowds have diminished.
What to do
When you visit Venice, discover the best way to experience the city – whether it’s strolling through the streets and visiting churches, bundling up and exploring the islands, or simply relaxing at a bacari or osteria with pasta and wine. These are some of the most pleasurable activities to do on a winter day in Venice.
Explore the churches
You can save money while exploring the beautiful art and architecture of Venice by visiting its churches. For only €14, a Chorus pass allows entry to 18 churches throughout the city. Alternatively, you can choose a €7 pass for three churches or pay €3 for each individual church. This pass offers great value and a structured way to stroll through different neighborhoods.
Be sure to add San Sebastiano to your itinerary in the charming Dorsoduro district. The church is a stunning example of the restoration efforts led by Save Venice, and the artwork inside is truly remarkable. It serves as a tribute to the renowned Italian painter Paolo Veronese, with additional pieces by Titian, Andrea Schiavone, Palma il Giovane, Jacopo Sansovino, and Alessandro Vittoria. After your visit, take a short walk to Trattoria Anzolo Raffaele for a cozy and affordable meal.
Appreciate some artwork.
Besides the churches, there is an abundance of exceptional artwork in Venice. On a rainy or windy day, it is worth exploring the different galleries, collections, and museums. The Peggy Guggenheim Museum is situated in the former residence of the renowned art collector on the Grand Canal. It displays her vast and remarkable personal collection, which includes works by renowned artists such as Picasso, Jackson Pollock, Henry Moore, Mark Rothko, and Salvador Dali.
“Explore the Palazzo Ducale”
During the summer, the Palazzo Ducale, which used to be the residence of the Doge and the seat of Venetian government, is usually crowded with tourists. However, during my visit in early December, it was pleasantly quiet. It was a more enjoyable experience to admire the Gothic architecture without having to wait in long lines or push through crowds. Exploring the courtyards, Doge’s apartments, and Scala d’Oro was a peaceful experience. I also took the opportunity to visit the prisons, where the accused were once taken across the Bridge of Sighs to the courts. Before leaving, I stopped by a cozy cafe for a pastry and cappuccino.
and experience the vibrant colors of the island
Visit Burano and witness the lively hues of the island.
There are a number of trips you can take to the small islands around Venice, but my favourite is the colourful community of Burano. It’s known for the brightly painted houses that line the streets and canal, as well as lace-making. You can easily spend a couple of hours wandering around the shops and grabbing coffee or lunch at one of the restaurants.
You will find the unique leaning bell tower of St. Martin’s Church on the main street. It is worth taking a look inside, and the church only requests a donation for entry. Don’t forget to visit Bepi’s house, which is considered the most beautiful and colorful building on the island. If you have a full day to spare, you may want to visit Murano, known for its glass blowing, and the small island of Torcello. These locations are both included on the same water taxi route and covered by your ticket.
Simply walk or choose to run.
I am certain that spending a few days aimlessly exploring the streets of Venice would make for a fantastic trip. There is no necessity to join a large tour group as Venice is a safe and easily navigable city. Even if you happen to lose your way amidst the maze of alleys and canals, you can easily find your way back using a recognizable landmark. Cross the Grand Canal on the charming wooden Ponte dell’Accademia, take a leisurely stroll to the Rialto market, discover the former Jewish Ghetto, or enjoy an espresso at Pasticceria Chiusso.
The Sunrise Running Tour, which can be reserved at the Avani Rio Novo Venice hotel, is my top recommendation. Venice resident Denis will guide you on a scenic jog through different neighborhoods, meandering through streets, crossing bridges, and following canals.
Starting your first day in the city with this tour is a great idea. Denis will show you the top sights to see and recommend some delicious places to eat. The tour begins early (I was picked up at 7am), but the sunrise over Venice in the chilly morning is truly breathtaking. The tour concludes with a tasty croissant and coffee at a nearby café.
Where to stay
The Gritti Palace
The Gritti Palace is the epitome of traditional Venetian luxury. Situated in a prime location on the Grand Canal, with stunning views of the city and the Salute church, it offers unparalleled splendor. The staff is welcoming and well-informed, providing impeccable service. The cuisine is exceptional. The rooms exude opulence, with the ultimate luxury being a balcony overlooking the canal. During Christmas, the lobby is adorned beautifully. If budget is not a concern, the Gritti Palace is the ultimate choice for a winter stay in Venice.
Top-rated accommodations in Venice
Where to eat
Contrary to popular belief, dining out in Venice does not have to be extremely costly. While indulging in food and drinks along the Grand Canal or near St Mark’s Square may come at a slightly higher price, it could be worth it for the picturesque setting.
To save money on food, visit the Dorsoduro neighborhood. This area is home to most of Venice’s university buildings and is popular among students. The restaurants and bars here are much cheaper than those in other parts of the city and there is a laid-back, bohemian atmosphere. In the Castello neighborhood, you can find traditional Venetian cuisine at the restaurants along Via Garibaldi. This is also a popular spot for locals to gather and enjoy drinks late into the evening.
When to go
I traveled to Venice in December and discovered the ideal time to visit. The months of September and October can still have high season crowds, but by November the city becomes much quieter. In January, some hotels, bars, and restaurants may close, and in February the crowds return for Carnival. I suggest visiting during the middle of the week, even during winter when weekends can be a bit hectic. It’s best to visit on a Monday, Tuesday, or Wednesday.
What is the duration of the stay?
It is not necessary to spend more than three days in Venice. This amount of time is sufficient to experience the city and visit the popular tourist spots. However, if you have the opportunity to stay for a week, it is highly recommended. This will allow you to adjust to the city’s pace and fully appreciate it at a more relaxed speed.
How to reach that location.
Several large airlines, such as British Airways, easyJet, Wizz Air, and Ryanair, offer direct flights from London to Venice Marco Polo. The flight typically takes about 2 hours and 15 minutes. Additionally, easyJet has direct flights from Edinburgh with a flight duration of around 2 hours and 30 minutes.
If you are staying in a different location, you have the choice of taking a bus or a taxi to reach the city and then walking to your hotel. The recommended means of transportation is usually by water, as it adds to the authentic experience of arriving in Venice. You can opt for a private water taxi, but the Alilaguna public transport is a cheaper and highly efficient alternative. The boats depart from the airport every 30 minutes and charge €15 for a one-way trip (there are multiple stops throughout the city, so be sure to ask on the boat or at your hotel beforehand to ensure you get off at the correct location).
Source: independent.co.uk