What are some reasons to consider visiting Lerici, the lesser-known alternative to Italy’s popular Cinque Terre?

C

The conversation quieted down as Mishka made her way through the group of people. I observed her confidently strutting towards the shore before getting agitated and returning. It’s common for Italians to go for a walk during sunset before dinner, which is why I had chosen a spot on a small rocky harbor to enjoy the beautiful orange sky. However, Mishka is a domestic cat.

Each night, Mishka goes for a walk with her owners to see the sunset. She resides in a pale-colored stone residence on the outskirts of Tellaro, a town in Lerici with a total of 1,200 inhabitants. During the walk, Mishka passes by a few tables outside Bar La Marina, where acquaintances and community members pause to greet her.

Tellaro isn’t far from Italy’s most famous collection of towns, the Cinque Terre, where 2.4 million tourists descend each year. Even in shoulder season, the towns can feel a lot like Disneyland version of Italy, so it’s not surprising that holidaymakers are considering alternatives. I hadn’t expected to find one just an hour away.

The charm of Cinque Terre lies in its vibrant houses packed tightly together, narrow alleyways, and stone staircases. These features can also be found in the towns of Lerici, but without the large crowds.

Explore Italy through travel articles.

Tellaro, with its small port tucked away behind the main square and accessible only by stairs, could potentially compete with the popular Instagram destination of Vernazza (which has over 500,000 posts with the hashtag #Vernazza; Tellaro has a modest 71,000). Unlike Vernazza, Tellaro does not have a national park designation or discounted train tickets, and it doesn’t even have a train station.

The absence of a railway in Lerici and nearby villages has kept them relatively unknown, but one advantage of Lerici is that you can easily travel by car. In the Cinque Terre, the only modes of transportation are trains or walking.

If you prefer not to use a car, you can rely on Italy’s public transportation system. The journey from La Spezia to Lerici takes only 40 minutes by bus. The bus to Tellaro may be a small and unsteady minivan, but the breathtaking views from the cliffs make it worthwhile.

Lerici, known as the gateway town of the area, bears a striking resemblance to Monterosso, the biggest among the five coastal villages comprising the Cinque Terre. With its charming shops and seaside eateries, Lerici takes advantage of the scenic Bay of Poets that lies in front of the town. However, it is advisable to avoid the more prominent dining options for lunch and instead opt for drinks if you wish to enjoy the view of boats.

In comparison to the similar Cinque Terre towns, Lerici stands out with its unique atmosphere and extensive cultural events. Unfortunately, I was disappointed to have missed the literary festival by a few days, where authors and boat trips come together. The town also hosts a summer music festival and various poetry gatherings, with a notable poetry prize influenced by famous poets such as Keats, Shelley, and Byron.

The locals in Cinque Terre do not seem to be tired of tourism, which is evident by their warm and welcoming attitude. It took me some time to realize that I was accidentally greeting people with “good evening” in Italian every morning. The shop owners were eager to share information about the local designers of clothing, jewelry, and ceramics. The creative scene in the area is thriving, and this sense of pride also extends to the food. In San Terenzo, a leisurely walk around the bay will lead you to Osteria La Situa, where they focus on serving craft beers and wines made in the region. Along the way, there are poetry listening stations for those who want to take a longer stroll. This town is also home to Villa Magni, the white stucco house where Percy and Mary Shelley lived until his tragic death in 1822.

During my trip, I stayed at Hotel il Nido, which was my home for the duration. It was the only hotel in Tellaro that offered beach access. However, be sure to use plenty of insect repellent as the lush green trees tend to attract midges. I believe I would have been just as content staying in the small town of Fiascherino, which is a collection of hotels and small beach resorts near DH Lawrence’s house. It’s about a 20-minute walk from Lerici, where there are more luxurious options for sunbathing. It’s possible to go an entire day without speaking to anyone, except for a quick greeting on the cliffside walk. After experiencing the crowds of Cinque Terre, the peacefulness of this town is a welcome relief.

However, if you persist, there is a small ferry that runs between Lerici and the Cinque Terre. However, spending a few days on the Bay of Poets may convince you to stay put. If you’re fortunate, your pre-dinner drink may even be accompanied by a visit from Tellaro’s beloved feline.

British Airways and easyJet offer flights from UK airports to Genoa or Pisa. It takes approximately 90 minutes by train from either city to reach La Spezia, and a brief bus ride along the coast will take you to Lerici. This journey is all part of the adventure.

Hotel il Nido not only boasts its own small beach, but it also prioritizes Italy’s passion for breakfast pastries.

top-rated accommodations on the Amalfi Coast

Source: independent.co.uk